After a long closure due to Covid and a hurricane, reports came in early February 2022, while we were still in central Mexico, that El Tajin had re-opened. Not that you could tell from the government website, which still said it was temporarily closed. But reviews on Google Maps clearly showed recent visitors, as well as providing the information that the site was only open Monday to Friday, 10am to 4pm, with a maximum of 300 visitors per day.

When arriving at the site, the impact of the hurricane couldn't be seen, although whether due to the hurricane or Covid, the area of the site that you could visit was smaller than for previous visitors. After working out only one person per group could line up at the ticket office, we then followed a set circuit route around the site, ropes and signs restricting access. (Even the Unesco plaque was outside the roped path...)

After visiting numerous pre-Hispanic cities in central Mexico, the lush green grass and forested surrounds of El Tajin made for a picturesque change. The two highlights of our visit were the Pyramid of the Niches and the panels on the side of the Juego de Pelota Sur depicting an imminent beheading. However, access to Tajin Chico was completely restricted (maybe there was hurricane damage up there?) and in only an hour we wrapped up our visit.

To access El Tajin, we made a three day trip from Mexico City via public transport. It's probably possible in two depending on bus timetables (at least if you stay in Poza Rica), definitely if you have a private car. After initially planning to stay in the city of Poza Rica, we switched to staying in the smaller town of Papantla, closer to the site and more atmospheric according to previous visitors.

There were also clearer instructions on where in Papantla to catch a bus to El Tajin, but we discovered that it of course wouldn't be so simple... After discovering the information was incorrect, we received various instructions (that were difficult to understand with our limited Spanish) on where to get a bus or collectivo (or probably a more expensive taxi). We eventually found the collectivos to El Tajin (shared taxis with a "Tajin" sign in the front window) on Artes, just west of the park. It cost us 80 pesos for two people to El Tajin, then 100 pesos to return.

At least it's true that Papantla is a lovely small town. During our visit multiple festivities occurred, whether in preparation for the upcoming Festival Cumbre Tajin or just part of regular Sundays (and Mondays!), including a Voladores performance, other traditional dances, and some kind of concert. In Papantla you'll likely stay at the suitably named Hotel Tajin, one of the few hotels in town on Booking dot com. While centrally located and with a pool, we found it rather overpriced and dated.