Levuka is not an easy site to get to, even if you start on the right side of the world in Sydney, Australia. From Sydney, it's a just a quick 4-5hr flight to Nadi, the main airport in Fiji, from where most people head directly to resorts. But then you need to get to Suva, on the other side of Viti Levu, either a short flight or a 4-5hr bus ride. And Levuka is located on the small island of Ovalau, just off the coast to the north. Previously, there were flights to Ovalau, but there haven't been commercial flights now for multiple years due to the state of the runway. Instead, it's a 4-5hr trip by a bus/ferry combo.

After a late departure from Sydney, luckily all our other transport connections ran smoothly. We selected to take the cross-island bus rather than fly to Suva, as the flights didn't line up and the bus ticket was about 10 or 15% of the cost of a flight. The cross-island buses often run a little late, but at least we stopped on the way at a market - a good spot for cheap snacks. Also, make sure you turn up at the "loading" not the "departure" time for the bus/ferry - it often departs early!

It ended up taking about 24hr to arrive in Levuka from Sydney, including a hotel stay in Suva with a late arrival and early departure (we recommend the Capricorn Hotel near the bus station), but then we arrived right in the heart of Levuka.

Beforehand, I wasn't feeling that optimistic about Levuka's OUV. I've visited a few capitals and towns in the Pacific, which tend to be underwhelming. Fiji is more developed than many countries, with modern buildings in Nadi and Suva, but that's certainly not the case in Levuka, which is like stepping back into the past.

One of the most charming parts of Levuka is its main street, Beach St, lined with old wooden storefronts. (Just ignore the noisy generator at the "power station", presumably supplying power to the whole town, and the nearby modern fish processing factory.) Wandering around the town, you'll come across plenty of old churches and schools dating to the 19th century, plus historical points of interest.

Levuka is a fairly fragile site. One of the old general stores burnt down only a few years before the site was added to the list - an ever present danger when so much is constructed from wood. Plus the town was nearly directly hit by the record breaking Cyclone Winston in 2016 - I think some of the history signs around town still haven't been replaced.

The museum was temporarily closed during our visit - I'm not sure for how long, although it did look like renovations were underway. It would be great to see more funding for the town's preservation. It reminded me of Tlacotalpan in Mexico, though more rickety and less tequila. 

We stayed for 2 relaxing nights at Levuka Homestay, run by an Australian couple who have lived on the island for over 20 years. Their very comfortable rooms are surrounded by a lush tropical garden, and there's a great view from the top of the property where a generous breakfast is served in the morning. We didn't get up to much except wander around the town, plus to the north and south. There's no nearby beach, although it might be possible to swim somewhere at high tide. 

We arrived on a Saturday morning, when the town was bustling with residents from all around the island. Be warned that it's not best to visit on a Sunday at the moment (except to take photos with clear streets). At the moment there are only 2 restaurants operating, both that close on Sunday, although it's hoped that a new place is opening soon that will be open on Sunday. We made do with snacks from the supermarkets (some that still open on Sunday) and the bakery (which has limited hours on Sunday). 

Visiting Levuka opened our eyes to a very different side of Fiji, that you entirely miss if you just visit a resort like we have previously done. People are very friendly and welcoming, especially in Levuka. Plus it's a lot cheaper than expected, especially the food. Restaurant meals in Levuka are about 5-7 EUR (plus bring your own beer from the supermarket), the ubiquitous roti snacks under 1 EUR. It's well worth a visit!