It's nearly impossible to visit Bagan and not find at least one temple or vista awe-inspiring. I traveled with a Burmese family doing an annual pilgrimage to Bagan, and it was interesting to see how their trip differed from some of the more classic ways that tourists tour it: via bicycle and in just a day. We started before dawn, when it was still dark and headed to Mount Popa, where we trucked it up the mountain and began what would be two days of temple hopping. After each visit, we would pile back into the bed of the pickup truck and head with our incense, flowers, and gold leaf to the next spot. 

And of course, we watched sunset at a temple—that's a must do. The stupas change color throughout the day, and some vary by composition. So you have rose-pink temples in the early morning light, dull brick by the harsh light of mid-day, and a brilliant ochre when lit by the setting sun. Make sure that you are out early on the day(s) you visit so you can see the full range.   

One of the things I loved about going via the truck is some of the more rural areas that we passed. Locals from the region sell jaggery candies and sour plum treats a bit outside the tourist center, and they're tasty! Make sure that you keep an eye out for these small round purple balls — they are hand-rolled sour plum paste dipped in sugar! 

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Lastly, probably consider a guide of the more important temples, or even a half-day tour. It's impossible to truly appreciate the deep history and the significance of the different temples without backstory and explanation of what these places mean to the locals. Bagan is still a living place of worship for the Burmese, and it's a fascinating window into the way Burmese people practice Buddhism. Highly recommended. It can only the politics of Burma that has kept it on the tentative list, because it's a must visit and a real highlight of Southeast Asia on the whole.