First published: 01/05/05.

Sheila Ross

Chaco Culture

Chaco Culture (Inscribed)

Chaco Culture by Sheila Ross

The Chaco Culture National Historical was the last World Heritage Site I visited on my recent trip to the Southwest. Although it is not far from several decently-sized cities and towns, it gives the impression of being quite remote. This is underscored by the fact that entering the park requires driving on 16 miles of rough gravel road. Although a road map makes this seem like a relatively short distance from the highway, realistically it takes rather a long time because one can't drive particularly fast on this very bumpy road (the road is paved once you enter the actual park). The park gets very warm in the summer and there is little shade.

The park features a large collection of ancestral puebloan ruins, including the massive Pueblo Bonito. This structure is believed to have been four stories high and contained over 600 rooms and 40 kivas (ceremonial round rooms). Pueblo Bonito was easily accessible from the main road in the park and the guided tour was very informative. More challenging trails to other sites in the park require a permit, and since we were only camping at the park for one night, we didn't have time to go.

A wonderful extra benefit to visiting the Chaco Culture site is that it has very dark skies, due in part to the park's active commitment to reducing light pollution. This makes it very popular with the local astronomy community; in fact one local astronomer has donated a domed observatory and other equipment. The park has regular astronomy programs, which we were able to enjoy the night we were there. One presentation did an excellent job of showing the connections between astronomical cycles and the structures, as it is believed that the Chacoan people were observers of the skies themselves. For example, strategically placed windows in the buildings capture the sun at key times of the year, in order to track events such as the solstices. This part of the Chaco experience was a real treat for my husband, as he is an amateur astronomer himself. The volunteers that evening let him help find things with the telescope and show them to other park visitors.

If you can stand the heat and the bumpy road to get in, Chaco is a very rewarding experience. I do have a few pieces of advice, though. The campground does not accept reservations and only has about 50 sites, so it's best to arrive by mid-afternoon to get a good one. Also, if you need firewood you should get it well in advance. There are few opportunities within an hour or two's drive of the site to purchase it, and none is available in the park. We almost had to do without, but the previous occupants of our campsite had extra and left it behind (thank you, whoever you are).

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