These inscribed monuments are titled “Bagherat” after the modern town situated nearby but are in reality those from city of Khalifatabad built in the 15th century by the Turkish Sufi general Khan Jahan Ali who became widely known as a warrior-saint. Little of the city remains visible apart from a number of Islamic buildings – mainly mosques, but also the tomb of Khan Jahan himself. These are important architecturally for being pre-Mughul in design. However the location is perhaps more highly revered by Bangladeshis as the country’s Islamic cradle than the buildings might appear to justify to the average non Bangladeshi visitor or architectural expert!

The site is easy to get to from Khulna (and fits in well with a visit to the WHS of The Sundarbans) but the mosques are scattered in 2 main groups across several kilometres and require time to visit even if you have a car. The most significant building, is that of the Shait Gumbad Mosque (photo) said to be “the most magnificent traditional mosque in the country”. There are at least 7 other mosques to visit – mainly small square or rectangular buildings in brick with terracotta decoration and varying numbers of domes. At the Shait Gumba you are likely to be welcomed and shown the interior by the friendly Imam but you will probably be the only person around as you search out the other mosques by following footpaths among fields and ponds – in itself a pleasant way of spending time! The mausoleum building is rather busier with active worshippers and women are not allowed inside.

I found the greatest interest in noting the similarity of building materials and, to some extent, style and decoration to that of Hindu temples I had seen earlier at Kantanagar and Puthia. The former is an absolute gem but is not even on the Bangladesh Tentative List. I wonder why? Bangladesh still has around 14% Hindu citizens and a Buddhist structure has been nominated as a WHS .