In Sept 2018, while we were “in town” looking at the Canal du Midi, we paid a revisit to the Old City of Carcassonne – after a gap of many years. A mistake, unfortunately. “Never go back” is the saying but it isn’t always true in the case of WHS. Many of them certainly repay multiple revisits to deepen knowledge and add new positive memories. But, in other cases, a revisit can overlay earlier impressions with more negative ones, highlight the site’s deficiencies and the changes which have occurred both in one’s own views/knowledge and in the site itself.  During the visit I found myself asking “why are we here”? Not a good sign! Across the passing years Carcassonne had become even more a pastiche of a pastiche. A pseudo mediaeval theme park. Yes - the skyline is “iconic” but then so is that of the “Cinderella Castle” at Disneyworld! It receives more than 3 million visitors each year - presumably supercharged in part by its additional "fame" as the title of the Board/Xbox game. 

Crossing the Pont Vieux we ran the gauntlet of assorted “mediaeval” peasants and soldiers who had erected “barriers” across it, either to persuade tourists to stop and inspect their wares or else just to have a chance to play out their hobby of dressing up as peasants and soldiers. The citadel itself was festooned with a “castle sized” contemporary “art installation” titled “Cercles concentriques excentriques” which had been created to “celebrate” 20 years of UNESCO inscription (Photo - The artwork has not been received without criticism. It would have “failed” of course if it had been otherwise!). The Swiss artist Felice Varini has explained - “During the tour of the castle, people will notice these yellow circles gradually spread from Porte d’Aude. Such experience also attracts them to explore more about the heritage.” Another comment is that they challenge “visitors’ vision and perception of it. As you stroll through the castle and ramparts, you’ll see a range of different points of view created by the painted sheets and the existing structure, which will give you a new reading of the architecture and of illusionist art”. Hmmm???? I presume that both sponsors and artist had intended that such "exploration" and "new reading" would be positive towards the site on its 20th anniversary. An alternative view might be that creating an  "Illusion" on its walls was entirely appropriate for a city which is itself significantly an "illusion" and, furthermore, has become famous as the title of an illusory Xbox world.  

On this Saturday afternoon in September (what must it be like in August?) the whole place was heaving with people. We escaped to those parts of the walls which were freely accessible - but Carcassonne looks better from the outside looking towards it rather than looking out from it onto the suburbs of the contemporary town. I would never suggest that the "Old City" doesn’t “need” to be seen “once”, but what does it offer beyond that first “wow” and the buzz of crowds and restaurants? I was interested to note that ICOMOS suggested in its original 1985 evaluation (which led to “deferral”) that it might be better nominated "as an eloquent example of the conservation policy of the 19th century and the restoration doctrines of Viollet-leDuc” rather than as an example of fortifications stretching from Roman to Mediaeval times. One of the 2 inscription criteria from 1997 states that it is “of exceptional importance by virtue of the restoration work carried out in the second half of the 19th century by Viollet-le-Duc, which had a profound influence on subsequent developments in conservation principles and practice.” - The AB notes that no criteria were proposed in the Nomination so, presumably, the inclusion of this one owes much to ICOMOS which, from the text of its evaluation, clearly had to "wrestle" over how best to handle this aspect. Another surprising fact is that "The original nomination related only to the fortifications, the castle, and the cathedral. ICOMOS is of the opinion that the entire urban complex intra muros cannot easily be separated from the fortifications."

I am reminded of the US catch phrase “Where’s the beef?” The restored Citadel is too much of a candy floss confection for my taste - appealing primarily to first impressions. There are remains of the mediaeval and earlier periods in the layout and the lower strata (and in the interior of the heavily restored Basilica which we didn't visit on this occasion) but they are overwhelmed by the restoration. I note that France has added to its T list 7 nearby "Sentinel Castles" together with the Old City (and hence presumably as an "extension"). We might have been better advised to spend our time visiting one of these - reading about them on Wiki they seem to have retained much more of their genuine "13th C" aspects - and also their "wildness". Their addition could actually help increase the genuine "mediaeval" content of the whole inscription. Indeed the description for this T List entry claims just that. In the mean time Carcassonne has become the first WHS where I have actually reduced my rating following a repeat visit!