In Nov 2010 we visited Cape Coast and Elmina castles (just 15 kms apart) and climbed up to, but didn’t enter, Fort St Jago which is also at Elmina. These are the most popular cultural tourist sites in the country and a tourist visit to Ghana without seeing at least one of them is unthinkable.

Both castles are impressive buildings and are wonderfully situated right on a coastline of fine beaches next to fishing harbours and markets which extend right up to the castle walls (my photo is of Cape Coast Castle). Their colourful activity is an interesting part of a visit. The blue of the sea, the gold of the sands, the greens of the palm trees, the white of the castles and the multi-coloured boats will lead you to use up a fair chunk of your digital photo card!

The buildings are of course indelibly associated with the Atlantic slave trade and, for many people that will be the main focus of a visit. The dungeons are certainly impressive in their size and, if you are so inspired, a stimulant for introspection on the events which happened there.

Beyond them however the buildings are really rather attractive and belie that aspect of their history – both were restored in the 1990s. In the centre of Elmina is a Portuguese chapel dating back to 1482. It was later used as an auction hall for slaves but is now a little museum covering a wide range of historical aspects beyond “slavery”. Cape Coast castle was at one time the British seat of government and contains what seem more like “office” buildings. Indeed, apart from the rows of cannons, once one is inside it doesn’t give off a particularly “miltary air”. Apart from the dungeons it is primarily a late 18th century building

And if you only have time for one? A difficult call! I think I might actually go for Elmina. Although smaller and with “less impressive” dungeons it is in some ways the more significant historically. Also, as well as having 2 forts, the town is perhaps more interesting. But better to avoid the problem by taking in both – this is easy enough in a day!