The Hospicio is an early 19th Century hospital, workhouse and orphanage built in the form of an enormous square within whose high walls individual high, but single story, buildings are set around 23 internal courtyards and gardens, together with 2 large domed chapels; all connected by arcaded corridors (photo 1). Both its concept and its reality are impressive – its size is “palace-like”. However its architectural and historic significance is further enhanced by the 57 murals of major significance and importance painted in the late 1930s by Orozco on the walls, ceiling and dome of the main chapel. These 2 aspects create an amazing structure which should not be missed if you are in/around Guadalajara.

We enjoyed and would not have missed it but I cannot say that the visit was entirely satisfactory. The entrance fee at 70 pesos per person was the most expensive we came across in the whole of our Mexican trip until we reached the Casa Barragan (where that included a 2hr guided tour in English) – even the world class National Museum of Anthropology was only 48 pesos. Yet the Hospicio was singularly lacking in explanation. A guided tour might or might not have been available but the ticket office was lackadaisical and disinterested. The bookshop only had general and coffee-table books about Orozco for sale (though I have read that there is supposed to be one available about the Hospicio murals). The building is now used as a Cultural Institute with schools, exhibition areas and theatre etc. As far as we could see, none of these was explained or signposted, even in Spanish. The biggest lack was an explanation of the Orozco murals themselves. Around the walls are works depicting differing aspects of Mexico’s history – the pre-Hispanic world, the Conquest, the Conversion of the Indians, Dictatorship, The Revolution etc. The culmination is the “Man of Fire” in the cupola (photo 2). The power of the images spoke to some extent for itself but, whilst the general subjects and Orozco’s views about them were clear enough, the allegorical nature of the representation made the need for an explanation that much greater. We felt somewhat cheated – if they can’t provide a tour why can’t they do as other museums around the World do and have plasticised hand-outs containing explanations in various languages (issued with a deposit if necessary to ensure they are returned)? The previous day in little Patzcuaro we looked at the wonderful “Historia de Michoacan” by O’Gorman – that small town had managed to prepare a little booklet for 20 pesos explaining in Spanish and broken English (but who cares!) the elements of that mural. If Patzcuaro can do it why can’t the UNESCO inscribed site of Hospico Cabanas do something similar!

(PS If you do like the Orozco murals there are more works by him in the nearby Palacio de Gobiernno (main staircase and Chambers of Congress) and the (slightly further out) Universidad de Guadalajara. The former in particular should NOT be missed by anyone visiting Guadalajara)