The Old City of Jerusalem holds special memories for me – not for religious reasons but as my first non European/N American travel destination as long ago as 1964. Those with long memories or knowledge of history will remember that the city was “part” of Jordan in those pre “6 Day War” days. I had crossed the Med on a Turkish passenger boat from Naples to Beirut, hitched hiked to Jerusalem via Damascus and would hitch back all the way home to the UK via Turkey - a “travel apprenticeship”! My review photo is from that trip - a digitised version of a diapositive taken from the Mount of Olives - a very much less developed skyline than that which is now the case!!

My diary lists a few “important” (semi!) Arabic phrases (e,g for "Student" and "No Money"!!) and contains a few scribbled names and addresses from Arab “friends” made along the way – I wonder how the troubles of the intervening years have treated them? The diary notes a trip up to the Temple Mount and also a visit to the Mandelbaum Gate – the only crossing between the 2 parts of the divided city and that only for UN officials, diplomats and certain “1 way only” transfers.

My second visit was in 1982 – this time I approached from Tel Aviv. The Mandelbaum Gate was no more – totally demolished as the hated symbol of a previously divided city. Significant parts of the old city (i.e. people’s houses) had been cleared to open up the Wailing Wall. Yet again I visited the Temple Mount. Perhaps 1982 was a relatively relaxed time to visit as I remember no great issues of security other than those to get on an El Al plane.

Those 41 years cannot be said to have treated the region kindly. I take no sides on the matters and remember friendliness from all I met, whether the site was in Israel or Jordan. But I have no wish to return for a third visit. Partly I suppose for personal security reasons but also because there just seems too much hatred around now and even visiting the Temple Mount is tied up with bureaucracy and security. Indeed I wonder if some religious sites are just too “potent” to be inscribed as WHS (viz the current disputes in India over inscription of the Golden Temple in Amritsar).

(Despite the above comment made in 2005 there was to be a 3rd trip - in 2014 - There was still much to see around Israel with Mrs Solivagant who had never visited and Jerusalem could hardly be missed out, but I don't think it added anything for me personally)