One of my lifetime “travel objectives” has been to visit at least 1 archaeological site from every “significant” (Yes I know this is judgemental but you can’t grind too small!) civilization/empire in world history. For all its fame and extent (from the Indus to Egypt) the Persian Empire has remarkably few extant remains. As far as I know, all are within the boundaries of modern Iran and only 2 (Persepolis and Pasargadae) are WHS (3 other significant sites are at Bisitun, Susa/Shoush and Naqsh-I-Rustam - all of which are on Iran’s Tentative List). This lack of “extended remains” is perhaps because the Empire’s “period of greatness” was remarkably short – from the fall of the Babylonians around 539 BCE to the defeat by Alexander in 331 BCE – i.e. only just over 2 centuries and within that time they fitted in Cyrus, Darius, Xerxes and several others! Also because the Empire was run from the heartland with the outlying provinces or “Satrapies” run semi-autonomously.

While I would like to visit the other sites I have at least achieved my ambition for this Empire by visiting Persepolis and can recommend it. However I still have to visit sites for 2 other civilisations from that area :-

a The Elamites - who preceded Babylon, and have a WHS at Tchoga Zambil in Iran

b. The Medes – who in the Bible (Daniel) were always linked with the Persians (“The Medes and the Persians…”) Their “empire” just preceded that of the Persians until they were defeated by Cyrus and their lands were added to his Empire. Their capital at Ecbatana lies under modern Hamadan and has not been excavated but 2 other sites at Nush-I Jan and Godan Tepe have - neither is a WHS nor on Iran’s Tentative List.

The site for Persepolis was chosen by Cyrus, actually founded by Darius and contains both his and Xerxes’ palaces as well as numerous other structures over a wide area. It is particularly famous for its bas reliefs – the most magnificent of all being the staircase showing the “Satraps” (Medes, Indians, Scythians, Bactrians etc) paying homage to Persia. Despite the destruction of the city by Alexander they are in superb condition and must rank as one of the world’s great examples of “in situ” archaeological art. The Tentative List site of Naqsh-i-Rustam, with its tombs of Darius and Xerxes, is nearby but unfortunately I didn’t visit it. Indeed my visit to Persepolis was as long ago as August 1970 (photo) – it really is time to return to that country, experience the enormous changes which have occurred and to fill in the remaining sites!!

A more modern event for which Persepolis became famous had still to occur when I visited! It was there in October 1971 that the then Shah of Iran celebrated the anniversary of 2500 years since Cyrus’ establishment of the Persian Monarchy. This turned out to be one of the “grandest” celebrations of modern times. It was also perhaps the beginning of the end for Mohammed Shah Reza Pahlevi – his hubris had exceeded all bounds – from then on it was all downhill to his overthrow in 1979.