Polonnaruwa is a very extensive ruined city consisting mainly of palace structures and religious buildings and containing at least 2 “world class” architectural/artisitc sights together with plenty of other atmospheric/memorable locations. They are quite widely spread out in a wooded “park” (A rented bicycle could be useful if you don’t have a car with driver) and it takes at least half a day and preferably more. We only had a full half day unfortunately and, if our experience at other Sinhalese sites is anything to go by, the legendary bureaucracy of that country makes leaving the site for lunch and returning on the same (expensive for foreigners) ticket impossible. It would be interesting to hear from other contributors whether it IS possible to get a “pass-out” as planning a visit would be helped by a definitive answer. Of course it may depend on the whim of the gateman – at Yala National Park we were left to sit under a tree at the entrance gate for half an hour whilst our jeep, driver and guide went “out” to the Park office to pick up their lunch – it was more than the gateman’s job was worth to let us “out” even for that small distance!

Unfortunately also the really excellent museum is outside the gated site (but included in the multiple part “tear off” you get if you buy a “Cultural Triangle” round ticket). It is a tough call whether to visit it before or after the city – I would favour the latter to put everything into context and remind you of the wonders but no doubt others would disagree! Again it is so typical of Sri Lanka to require this unnecessary choice. There are some nice “reconstructions” to show how the buildings would have looked originally and to explain things such as the water system. The museum is situated near the wall of the man made “Tank” (ie the huge lake) which provided the basis for Polonnaruwa’s agriculture.

My 2 “world class” sights are

a. The Quadrangle – a wonderful ensemble of some 10 Buddhist structures (photo)

b. The Gal Vihara - a group of Buddha images carved out of the living rock with a particularly fine “Reclining Buddha entering Nirvana”. If you have read my reviews of other Buddhist sites in eg India and China you will know that I am not a great aficionado of Buddhist art but this group is special.

For the rest just soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the little details.