The Pyramids –Then and Now!

The growth in leisure travel over the last half century threatens to overwhelm many of the most famous WHS sites such as the Pyramids. With the continuing growth in travel, and all those millions in developing countries who will soon join the throng, I sometimes wonder whether, in 50 years or so, we will each take part in lotteries to be allocated our ticket for our “once in a lifetime visit” to eg the Pyramids (similar to what happens now to see the Bears at Churchill Falls in Alaska!!). It is an unfortunate fact that, whilst the numbers seeing the great sights of the world increase inexorably, the conditions under which they see them and the restrictions they face also become more limited and onerous. The ability “to do your own thing in your own way” is sacrificed in the name of “crowd management”

My first visit to the pyramids was in 1975. In those days it was a fairly relaxed place. Although there were ticket offices, entry through the “back door” of the nearby Mena suburbs was perfectly possible- security had not been strengthened in face of the threat of terrorism. The possibility of a massacre as at Queen Hashepsut’s tomb in 1997 had not been considered

So, it seemed perfectly natural at the time to consider whether we should attempt to climb to the top “for a better view”!! Reports from Victorian/Edwardian and “between-the-wars” upper class visitors often seemed to include such a climb even by “Ladies” in long skirts! Various local guides offered, in whispered tones, to take us to the top including allowing us to sleep there to see the sunrise if we wished.

I was already somewhat cynical about “magnificent sunrises” – a view which has been reinforced over another 30 years of travel, since they rarely seem to live up to their billing – but the idea of going to the top seemed intriguing! Early the next morning we had taken the bus out from the city centre and were surveying which corner was likely to provide the easiest ascent. True there were signs stating “Do not climb the Pyramids” but these seemed to lack a certain seriousness as evidenced by their rustiness and drunken angles. Perhaps also by the obvious trails among the stones one could see above!

We chose a corner, no one was around to stop us and we set out for the top! It soon seemed slightly less of a good idea as the enormity of the height of the pyramids and the exposed nature of the climb became more obvious. What seemed like solid blocks from the bottom were in fact covered by loose grit and sand. Some of the “lifts” between steps were also well above what could easily be taken in stride. But, having started, one could not give up part way! It was with a degree of relief therefore that we reached the top. We were not alone – a couple were already there who had indeed spent the night and seen the dawn.

The stones on the highest level were worn smooth with the feet of countless earlier visitors – many of whom had scratched their initials on them going back to the 19th century(we desisted!). The view was indeed wonderful and provided a completely different “take” on the site from those at ground level. The true size of the pyramids was brought home to us as we watched the ant-like people below (Who by this time included some policemen who were well aware of our presence up above!). Eventually the time to descend came – going down was, if anything more fraught than going up. As we reached the base a few policemen gathered and we split up. At the bottom itself a half hearted chase took place and my companion was caught. A lecture “not to do it again” followed and we later met up none the worse!

30 years later I am glad we did it and the photos remain to remind me of another travel adventure! Perhaps it was “irresponsible” and a little bit dangerous and “what if everyone tried to do it?”. So I wouldn’t incite anyone to try it today but, I wonder, do people still climb the Pyramid?