The Pilgrimage to the (supposed) Tomb of Apostle St James the Great at Compostela was of great significance within medieval Europe. Here was one of the world’s first “Tourist journeys” complete with badges, souvenirs and even a guide book! An understanding of those times would be incomplete without an appreciation of the pilgrimage’s place in the medieval consciousness and surely this understanding would be helped by going there oneself?

But I can’t say that we personally were particularly impressed by Santiago. The main Plaza with its Palace, Town Hall and Pilgrims’ Hospice (now a Parador) is certainly enormous/impressive as an ensemble and, in my view, is the “best bit”. But the mainly baroque Cathedral which takes up 1 side of the square is in my eyes a bit ugly (even its much vaunted “Portico de la Gloria” – photo) and its Romanesque interior rather oppressive and overbearing. However, enthusiasts of Baroque, Romanesque and Gothic will no doubt find much to enthuse about and admire. Probably, one’s view of its beauty and significance would be considerably enhanced if backed by the faith which has drawn so many people there over the centuries. The chapels inside containing, as well as the “relics” of the Saint and 2 of his disciples, a “piece of the true cross”, will also be of great importance to some visitors.

Despite my personal misgivings it is clearly still a “must do” European site for its historical importance, its religious significance and its architectural grandeur, whether you possess the faith or not. I tried hard to imagine the pull it has exerted on people throughout the ages, indeed down to the present day, and the struggles and risks they would face in order to reach it, but the buildings themselves didn’t help me.

The inscription in 1985 states “ICOMOS suggests that a number of subsequent proposals be made which will associate various essential sites which are located in several countries under one single heading such as “Paths to Santiago” or “Pilgrimage to Compostela” thereby enhancing the worldwide significance of inscribing Santiago de Compostela on the World Heritage list”. Yet there are now (in 2006) at least 3 more “Compostela” related sites in Spain and France (see my reviews) so this vision never came to pass. I wonder why? Politics and Nationalism no doubt!