There is a category of WHS which, whilst being “important” in terms of the criteria leading to inscription, doesn’t actually “repay” a great deal to those who go to see them and I have to place Sinharaja in that group.

At the best of times tropical “rain forests” require time and knowledge if they are to be fully appreciated. Insofar as they contain animals and birds these are usually rather difficult to see – the birds either creep around in the undergrowth or flutter in the canopy giving the observer a cricked neck! Such forests are located where the climate is hot and humid. Often the fact that they have survived is a result of their being sited precipitously or remotely. They are not “comfortable” places to visit! I have been “lucky” enough to visit such forests in the Americas, Africa and Asia. Unfortunately for me Sinharaja added little to the experiences already gained and did not really repay the time and effort even though I have no doubt about its significance in terms of being a threatened and unique ecosystem.

If you are in Sri Lanka and have not previously visited such a forest then it could be “worth a visit” but the logistics of getting there are not really suited for a “quick visit”! It will probably take you at least an overnight and a morning even to get inside it. Most people prepared to overcome the difficulties are likely to have more specific Flora/Fauna requirements than a general interest in seeing a “tropical humid rainforest of the Indo-Malayan realm” and will be prepared to stay a couple of days to really get to grips with the forest ecology and/or see the endemic Bird species for which the park is noted (18 out of Sri Lanka’s 20 have been recorded there).

There are 2 main entrance points to this park which is set astride a mountain ridge – from the north or south (there are no roads “across” the park and all access is on foot). Neither entrance is convenient for a quick visit however

a. The Northern at Kudawa. The surfaced road ends some kilometres away at Waddagala and you are likely to need to pay for a 4WD or face a long walk in. There is a rest house still 4kms outside the park or a research centre inside the boundaries

b. The Southern at Mederatpitiya. We took this entrance. The surfaced road goes closer but is still 16kms on from the nearest “bus-head” at Deniyaya (where the nearest rest house is located) and there is still a c2km walk to the ticket office from the road head. On the basis of our experience and reports of birdwatching visits which I have read there seems no doubt that the northern entrance is the better for seeing the endemic species.

The park is less costly to visit than many of the Sri Lankan Parks and WHS. – As of Mar 2005 a mere $6 pp plus the need to hire a compulsory guide either at the ticket office ($3 for 1-3 persons plus the ubiquitous “tip”) or via your hotel outside the park (more expensive but probably better attuned to explaining the sights in English). In order to see the birds we arrived at the entrance by 6.30 (already a bit late really) from our hotel over 40kms away. We had our guide with us but found the entrance unmanned and paid on the way out. I presume we could have entered without a guide but don’t know if we would have had to pay for 1 anyway. In any case a guide is really essential to appreciate the place – and to reach the most likely bird spots.

The forest is wet – you will see leeches and could even have the chance to experience donating blood to them! Beyond this, in a few hours hot walking (we gave the park a morning until 11.30 am by which time it is really too hot anyway), you will probably see a variety of insects, some snakes, the occasional mammal – most likely the giant squirrel (forget the Leopard!) and a few birds – plus lots of trees/plants. There are waterfalls and these require muddy climbs but otherwise “scenery” is not really “on the menu” among all the trees!