First published: 01/05/05.

Solivagant 4.5

South China Karst

South China Karst (Inscribed)

South China Karst by Solivagant

With the inscription of “S China Karst” in 2007 the WHS list contained at least 12 (??) examples of Karst scenery (eroded limestone/dolorite). Since around 12% of continental land worldwide is Karst that might not be so surprising, especially as such landscapes can be extremely interesting and attractive. Enormous areas of Southern China are Karst and, in my mind at least, such scenery is also very “Chinese” in atmosphere because of its use in Chinese painting and garden design. So perhaps it is not unreasonable for yet another Karst site to be inscribed - but which of the many possible examples should China have chosen?

Surprisingly, it hasn’t selected the most famous and, in my view the best, example – the scenery around Guilin/Yangshuo, but decided to go with a “serial” proposal of widely spread locations in Yunnan, Guizhou and around Chongqing as a “Phase 1” with Yangshuo and many others to follow in future phases. Coincidentally (???) another site inscribed on the same day at Christchurch in 2007, the Atsinanana Forest in Madagascar, adopted exactly the same approach of serial, physically unconnected sites in what is intended to be a multi phase inscription linked by an overarching “theme”. Has there been some policy guidance from above or have countries seen that this gives them several “bites at the cherry” in getting at least one site inscribed?

Indeed the evaluation of both proposals followed a similar trajectory with a few areas being jettisoned along the way as a “sacrifice” on the altar of “Universal Value” in order that the rest could slip through! In the case of S China Karst the areas around Chongqing were removed. If it had failed completely, then the “jewel in the crown” of Yangshuo, separately identified on China’s T list, could still of course have been wheeled in later!

Our view of the Karst scenery around Guizhou has been limited to that visible from a train window from Guiyang to Guilin. This was still quite fine but not that close to the inscribed area which is further east in the province. Luckily we have also visited one of the sites chosen in Yunnan – the so called “Stone Forest”.

We visited as long ago as 1989 (just 2 months after Tien An Men). It is situated a few hours bus ride from the provincial capital Kunming and is set in an area inhabited by the Yi tribes-people who were well in evidence, dressed in national costume and selling their handicrafts. Even in those days the site was a very busy “Chinese tourist attraction”. Anyone who has been to such attractions will appreciate what this means – the place will be heaving with people, all legitimately having a “good time” with no problems, but in that very Chinese noisy/shoving sort of way! The passage of 18 years, which have transformed the Chinese economy and many of its people’s access to travel and leisure, can only have increased the numbers, let alone an increase in foreign visitors who were totally absent when we were there.

When agreeing this inscription, UNESCO/IUCN were conscious of the variety of types of Karst scenery which exist and, quite reasonably, hoped that China can extend this inscription to include all of the major ones and their stages of development, above and below ground, so perhaps Yangshuo will get inscribed via that route now. “Stone Forests” constitute a specific type and are in fact already represented on the WHS list in Madagascar and Malaysia. We haven’t seen these for comparison but did find the formations of the Chinese example (photo) quite remarkable and well worth the side trip from Kunming. The photo shows some of the paths and steps laid out among the pinnacles – there are also bridges, railings and steps cut into the rock. The push of people trying to reach the highest vantage points, often quite precipitously located, can be considerable and, to anyone suffering from vertigo, probably somewhat frightening!

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