Some points which might be of use to anyone planning a visit to Tierradentro and deciding how (and whether) to visit its 5 locations (Based on a visit in Nov 2019) -
a. Alto de Segovia is the most worthwhile site to see. From the main site entrance there is a paved uphill path (30/40 mins without rushing) which leads to what I understand to be 30 excavated tombs – of which 25 are “open”. Other statements vary these numbers slightly - but it isn’t worth arguing about the odd difference! All are currently lit by electricity. Sometimes this is switched on by the guard and sometimes there is a movement sensor which means you have to descend in the dark almost to the chamber itself before the light goes on! The tombs may have their “lid” covers open when you arrive – but there is a guard nearby to unlock any of them if required (some are kept closed to prevent birds entering). We visited Segovia twice across 2 days - once religiously entering every open tomb and once concentrating on the finest. The tombs are scattered in groups across quite a large area and each group is covered by an open sided, but fenced, shed. All tombs are numbered and T21, 30, 9, 10. 11 and 12 are the best in terms of decoration. The amount of energy required to descend the very steep steps and haul oneself back up could be as much as the walk itself if as we did you visit them all! Some of the “steps” are giant sized. If you are not really “into” pre-Columbian tombs this is the group to plan for - plus the museum. If there is a group of people visiting then it could take a long time for them to get everyone down and up since 3 people at most can descend at a time - we watched the wait as a group followed us but, on our second visit, we were the only people on the site.
b. Duende lies a further uphill climb away – not paved – 20 to 30 mins walk plus visit time. There are 5 tombs of which 4 are open to view. None has electricity for lighting. A small torch isn’t really enough and the guards don’t have torches as part of the “Entry service” - though they may loan their mobile phones to help create a better light!!
c. Alto de San Andres lies a few kms from the main entrance. It is reached by following the road almost to Pisimbala. The path to it starts alongside the Hospedaje Portala just down hill from the village centre. It has 5 tombs of which 4 are open. It also has a collapsed tomb which shows the structure from outside. None is lit by electricity. 1 is particularly fine in terms of its painting and would be the next best to visit after those at Segovia.
d. El Tablon is the odd man out among the 5 sites as it has no tombs whatsoever but consists of 9 statues which have been collected together and erected under a single cover. It is a short walk from Pisimbala and wouldn’t take much longer than 30 mins to see. Apparently there is thought to be a connection between this site and San Andres which is clearly visible across the valley – the former for ceremonies and the latter for burials. If you have already seen San Agustin and have paid attention or done your homework you should be able to identify the stylistic similarities between the statues at El Tablon and those at San Agustin! The latter are however much finer. It isn’t entirely clear to me why El Tablon was included unless for this possible “connection” with San Andres. Other units of the Tierradentro Archaeological Park were excluded – e,g The El Hato statues on the road to Inza.
e. I can say nothing about the “value” to be gained from the Aguacate walk as we didn’t do it
f. The “Passport” (i.e ticket) lasts for 2 days and permits multiple entries to any of the sites but can only be bought from the main entrance. There are supposed to be 2 musea on either side of the road at the main entrance but one seems to have been on long term renovation and the other, just past the ticket office, covers both aspects on 2 floors - the lower for “Archaeology” and the upper for “Ethnology”. It is your choice but I would visit both (see later) - 40 mins probably, A guard is ready and willing to provide an explanation (in Spanish) and may well have to unlock the rooms anyway. Understanding the practices of initial shroud burial, later dismemberment and cremation, with the ashes placed in urns within the tombs is of interest.
g. You have a decision to make about where to stay - in one of the cluster of hotels/Hospedajes around the main entrance or up in Pisimbala. The former (but not the latter) seemed to lack restaurants and the tiendas all closed in the evening so Pisimbala has its advantages but possibly to be paid for by the extra need to walk to and fro. I guess it depends mainly on how you are travelling – bus or own transport – if the latter then you have more choice.

In the Ethnology section of the museum we noticed that some of the information boards were written in bilingual Spanish and Paez/Nasa (The language of the indigenous people within whose “Reservation” the Tierradentro Park is situated). We asked the various guards but only one of them could read them - and that somewhat haltingly. It appears that revitalisation of the Paez language has commenced by introducing it as part of the School curriculum (for schools run by the Indigenous communities). Hence the younger people are better at it than most of the older! But this matter is a part of the reason for the clashes between Indigena and Mestizo Campesos which I referred to in my review of the Catholic Doctrine Churches. There have also been clashes over the running of Tierradentro Park arising from the same tensions and issues as led to the burning of Pisimbala church. This link to a downloadable article provides background to the tensions Colombia has with the Paez over the inscription and management of Tierradentro (and refers also to the similar issues regarding San Agustin and the Catholic Doctrine Temples) -