We only gave the White City around 2.5 hours and certainly wouldn’t claim to have seen it comprehensively. We concentrated on the areas/side streets on and around Rothschild Boulevard and Disengoff Circus and quite enjoyed the atmosphere and ambiance of the place – though Assif’s warnings about the condition of some of the site in an earlier review certainly had validity. Some of the buildings had undergone recent renovation and were looking quite smart but, to us, none of them had the wow factor either of the iconic modernist single structure WHS inscriptions or of the best of the Berlin Housing Estates.
A few points which did emerge and might be of interest were as follows
a. I was surprised how many of the notable buildings had undergone quite significant alterations - usually the addition of 2+ floors. This included for instance the Cinema Hotel. One can understand the economic logic but one normally expects ICOMOS to be rather “pickier” on such matters – distorting the “balance” of the buildings etc
b. The so-called “Bauhaus Centre” at 99 Disengoff seems to be primarily a commercial enterprise selling anything and everything which could be “Bauhaus” branded. Nevertheless it is worth looking into for the small exhibition of photographs on the upper 2 floors. I particularly liked the very early photos of Tel Aviv such as the original laying out of Rothschild Boulevard on a sand dune!
c. The Cinema Hotel foyer was accessible but, apart from a few cinematic artifacts, looked what it was – a revamped hotel reception area!! Even the toilets failed to create the appropriate style. If you want to see a REAL Art Deco cinema go to Asmara – it has 3 of them and 2 are still operating
d. The areas we went to were not, on the whole, well signed/explained - a few buildings had plaques describing their history and there were a few vertical signboards but notably they all lacked the UNESCO logo – perhaps their installation predated inscription. If you like getting a photo of an inscription plaque (as we do!!) there is one on the pavement in the tree-lined central walkway of Rothschild at the first X roads south of 84 Rothschild!
e. And 84 Rothschild provides a “nice” example of the poor condition of some of the most important buildings. The Engel House at 84 receives special mention as being the first house in Tel Aviv built on stilt columns a la “International style”. Today however those columns are filled in with breeze blocks and are graffiti covered whilst the overall “shape” of the building has been totally altered by infilling of balconies etc. Nothing I guess that a bit of money couldn’t put right but indicative of the state of parts of the site. See my composite photo - B+W of original building at left and, right, the same building as of Jan 2014)!