I visited this site way back in about 1990, with a rather roguish Indian tour guide - We arrived a full two hours before it officailly opened and he bribed our way in.The result was that we had the entire site to ourselves, which is a huge privellage in a 'deserted' city which is also a tourist Mecca.

We were leaving just as the crowds arrived to replace the birdsong which had accompanied our tour with the din of modern tourism.

That said even when crowded this is a large fascinating, atractive, site, with plenty to see. It is also close enough to the Taj Mahal that you could do both in one day.

It does however stand on its own two feet and I would highly recomend it. And if you can bribe your way in before it officially opens, do!