Zimbabwe has been on our radar since we started visiting sub-Sahara Africa some years ago. Late September '23 we realized the trip.

Our trip was a road trip starting in Lusaka Zambia southbound and our first goal was (except secondary goal of Chirundu twhs in Zambia) Mana Pools National Park. It’s the site that really drives the cost on this trip. The park is a valley hosting the Zambezi River on the northern border to Zambia and is famous for its dry season wildlife gatherings. The WHS consists of three areas (Mana Pools, Sapi and Chewore), but we were told that Mana is by far the best area - for wildlife encounters.

Having spent the night just across the border from Zambia west of the park we entered the park fairly early one morning. Although it’s possible to see wildlife from the first gate we didn’t really have any encounters until we were way in the park. Camp headquarters (where we had to register a third time) are on the bank of Zambezi and from that point it was wildlife for three days. We experienced the famous “blue haze” although without Boswell (see Els’ review), but it was lots of other elephants and other animals.

The first afternoon/evening we spent mostly at the riverbank photographing lions, hippos, elephants, the pretty carmine bee-eaters, and other animals. The mandatory sundowner (which seams way over the top colonial I must admit, but it) makes the African sunset even more special.

We stayed two nights in Vundu Camp (https://www.bushlifesafaris.com/vunducamp/), which was a great place to stay. It is on the riverside and has its own concession. The price was within the total package of the trip, so we don’t know the exact price pr night.

The following day - peak day - we had two encounters with a pack of wild dogs (or painted dogs). The first was early morning on our first ever walking safari. The good local guide was quite confident he would find the pack, and he did. Resting on the riverbed they were probably relaxing after a successful hunt. The pack leader was uneasy by our presence so after some 10-20 minutes he wandered off and the pack reluctantly followed him. We leave them now the guide says, and we will find them again in the afternoon. They will probably still rest.

This time of year, it’s round 40 degrees Celsius here, but it’s an inland dry heat. It’s hot, but not very bad really. At the end of October, it might be around 50!

In the afternoon our guide found the dogs again still at the riverbank but a bit further east. After crossing a larger open area, the guide ordered us down some 30-40 meters from the pack. The pack of 17 was mostly looking at the river. This time the leader didn’t seem to care about us so ten minutes later we crawled closer to the dogs ending up 5-10 meters from them. They were mostly resting even though one or two were “on patrol” round us. Suddenly they all woke up and started running around, probably playing. This was a magic moment, and a good camera is essential to catch the essence of it. The memory is just fantastic!

It was close to sunset, but as it gets closer to dark, we had to withdraw. On foot in the dark is not for tourists, but this experience was certainly special.

The final morning, before breakfast, we were out at sunrise and again and went for the riverbank. This time we got some good pictures of the gazelles jumping across small tributary rivers and waterholes. It’s just amazing how they “fly”!

After a late breakfast we headed for the exit, but there was still wildlife to encounter. A striped hyena passed our way, and then there were elephants enjoying themselves on one of the Mana Pools.

In retrospect we should have had one more day. A canoe trip on the river is a must - that we missed. But then again – we should have lots of more days, for instance seeing the area totally flooded.

### Randi & Svein Elias