First published: 31/08/22.

Svein Elias 3.5

Ruins Of Kilwa Kisiwani And Songo Mnara

Ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara (Inscribed)

Ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara by Svein Elias

For our (European) summer holiday 2022 we aimed for three African countries and the first site we visited was the ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani. Our flight had its final stop early morning in Dar es Salam, and we spent the day at our travel agent’s premises at Kawe beach.

The following morning, we started our first roundtrip with a 4x4 safari vehicle and a driver/guide. Such a vehicle (and a driver) is not necessary for this stretch, but as we had safari plans on the roundtrip it was convenient. The drive south to Kilwa Masoko is 5-6 hours including a short meal stop. It was uneventful, but African driving is potholes, road work and the locals sharing the road.

Arriving at Kilwa Masoko around 1:30 we had the rest of the day off. We stayed at Kimbilio Lodge which is right on the beach (10 m from the water), a place with our own little cabin and the view from our bed out the door was the ocean, the sandy beach, and a parasol (made of grass and wood), simply iconic. Beeing the only guests made it even more special as we got personel service all the way, but from August their "books where full" again.

The following day we headed to the site itself, Kilwa Kisiwani. Our driver/guide took us to the harbour where we registered and picked up the local guide. When entering the boat, we were told the voyage across started with a small sightseeing looking at the coral reef through the glass bottom, but due to uneasy sea, it didn’t turn out very well, so we headed to the island.

The previous reviewers have revealed the most interesting details of the site, but i'd like to add that it’s a treat being guided on these precious premises with its history starting from the 8th or 9th century and ruins from the 11th to the 16th century even though it’s quite a hike. Late June is a perfect time for this visit, not too hot. We disembarked on to a stone jetty with ease. We passed by the upcoming visitor center and then to the first ruins. We visited a village with locals and had a brief stop at “someone premises”, very interesting. The most remarkable structure is the octagonal sultan's pool in his palace area (picture). Slaves had to fill it manually. When leaving the island we waded to the boat at the foot of the enormous sultan’s palace.

We didn't visit the other island Songo Mnara. I guess it would have been possible, even on the same day, but we hadn't prearranged that. The guide also mentioned another site, Kilwa Kivinje, which he ment was also would be an interesting one.

Around 2:00 we were back at our lodge having some more leisure time and the next day we went on to the next WHS.

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