First published: 27/05/22.

Svein Elias 1

Sbeïtla

Sbeïtla (On tentative list)

Sbeïtla by Svein Elias

Sbeïtla is located slightly south of the center of northern Tunisia, as the countries map visually divides in two by the vast salt pan of Chott el Jerid. It’s on the north-south line between Dougga and Chott el Jerid some 100 km southwest of Kairouan. It’s a large roman remain with some near complete structures and a lot of lower structures. In total it shows the size of this once great city.

Arriving just an hour before closing time and even at Ramadan we weren’t very popular neither at the ticket counter nor the gate. The counter had practically been closed already, but er got tickets, and at the gate they told us that we couldn’t do it within the hour. Thus, we hasted along not really knowing which direction to take. Soon we had an uninvited “guide” with us speaking only a few words of English. After telling him a couple of times we could do this by ourselves we gave that up. He hasted along with us saying “mill, olive press, bathtub, fountain, church” and so he continued. After a while we had to admit he was in fact informative in his short language way. Arriving at the more complete structures he could tell us “Jupiter, Juno, Minerva”. In addition to these bigger structures the mosaic floors and mosaic bathtubs are impressive. And of course, the arc is great! It might be an entrance, but it might not?
In the end we had to admit our hasty guide was helpful and a “proper guide” and more time would even better.

After leaving the site we rented a room on the hotel Safetula with verandas overlooking the archaeological site, which was nice. The hotel is not one of the better ones, but panorama view made up for it. And we had a good meal and even beer while still daylight – at Ramadan. A Ramadan meal is something to remember, a fixed menu with lots of food! Too much for us!

Sitting on the veranda in the evening we could see the grey skies we have had the last few days turning black south of us. Is it rain coming from the Sahara area? That’s strange! The next morning, we had rain all the way to Dougga.

There should be room for “more roman remains”. This site is not the best one, but it is good enough to make the list.

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