For most overseas travellers Tehran is inevitable in Iran, being the most likely entry pont and central transport hub. But the notorious traffic jams and dull concrete blocks make you feel like leaving the city as soon as possible. In other parts of the world "bustling nightlife" could outbalance the architectural disadvantages - but in the Islamic Rapublic amenities are limited to some pizzerias (forced to close if they play Western music too loud), traditional tea houses (can be fun once), cinemas (playing Iranian movies in Persian), and family picnicks (not for tourists unless you are invited).

What brings some - not too much - light into this grey concrete town, is the imperial past. The palaces are must see, as well as the tresury of the National Bank, where the crown jewels are deposited. As before the 18th century Tehran did not play an important role in the history of iran, the palaces are also quite young. Saadabad, the luxury hideout of Mohamed Reza Pahlavi, the last shah is a glitzy mid 20th century villa, that reflects the sophisticated taste and glamurous lifstyle of Farah Diba.

Golestan Palace is different. It was originally a regional royal residence built within the mud thatched walls of Theran. The major works begun with the rise of the Qajars at the end of the 18th century. Though it is not really old, its style reflects the age old Iranian traditions. Desptie the growing French and Russian influence in Iran the lifstyle of the monarchs was quite alike their medieval ancestors - the shah was sitting cross-legged on a table-like marble throne surrounded by subjects sitting on cushions in the diwan.

The most spectacular part of the whole building is the throne room -finished in 1806. Adorned - somtime a bit over-adorned - by paintings, marble-carvings, tile-work, stucco, mirrors, enamel, woodcarvings, and lattice windows, the throne embodies the finest of Iranian architecture. The Marble Throne is one of the oldest buildings of the historic Arg. The existing throne, which is situated in the middle of the terrace (iwan), is made of the famous yellow marble of Yazd Province.

Coronations of Qajar kings, and formal court ceremonies were held on this terrace. The last coronation to be held at the Marble Throne was the coronation of Reza Pahlavi, in 1925.

There are a lot of other rooms and buildings that showcase the dacadent splendour of the late Qajar monarchy. The most ornate - and somehow horrific - place is the Brilliant Hall. It was named so for it is adorned by the brilliant mirror work of Iranian artisans. The hall was built by the order of Nasser ol Din Shah in the late 1850s.

In between 1925 and 1945, a large portion of the buildings of the palace were destroyed on the orders of Reza Shah. He believed that the centuries old Qajar palace should not hinder the growth of a modern city. In the place of the old buildings, commercial buildings with the modern style of 1950s and 1960s were erected.