In many ways, Grand Place in Brussels looks the same as it did in the 17th century. There’s a Starbucks now and a couple of chocolate shops and outdoor cafés, but the stunning architecture of the square’s old buildings dominates everything and makes the modern additions fade into the background.

Even though I’ve seen dozens of magnificent squares in Europe, this one made me stop and catch my breath. Between the gilded facades and the soaring bell tower of the City Hall, I could not figure out where to look first.

On one side of the square, the City Hall is the focal point not just of the square but really of the center of Brussels—at 315 feet it can be seen from around the city. The tower is topped with an enormous statue of the archangel Michael slaying a devil. It’s been much the same since its completion in 1454. Facing the City Hall, the Gothic-style King’s House now houses the City Museum. The sides of the square are lined with beautiful Baroque merchant houses, many with ornate rooftops and golden decorations.

One of the interesting things about Grand Place is that it doesn’t have a church, which is relatively uncommon for old squares. That missing piece emphasizes Grand Place’s initial purpose as truly a market and business-oriented square.

It is possible to visit the City Museum. Although the exhibits are a little bit dry, it does give a good sense of the history of the city and the square. You can also visit City Hall, but only on a guided tour. All can be quite crowded during the summer. Despite the activity, this is still one of my favorite areas in Brussels to stay.

Every two years in the summer, Grand Place is temporarily filled with a giant themed flower carpet, which is remarkable to see, especially from above. In the winter, it houses one of the many Christmas markets in Brussels. If you’re not feeling in the Christmas spirit, a visit here will surely change that.  The massive Christmas tree and beautiful lights are a highlight of the festive holiday season.

It seems that Belgium is often overlooked in Western Europe, but I would recommend a visit to Brussels and the Grand Place.