The ǂKhomani Cultural Landscape, otherwise known as the The !Xam Khomani Heartland corresponds in fact to the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park. To add some more confusion, together with the Bostwana Gemsbok National Parks, if forms the African Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

South Africa justifies the OUV with the association of the red dunes of the parks and the ǂKhomani and related San people, who descend directly from the ancient population that inhabited southern Africa around 150,000 years ago.

Back in 1997, as I was discovering South Africa, driving from Pertoria to Namibia, I decided to go to the Kalahari Gemsbok Park, is the search of the San people territory. I had been fascinated by a 1980 movie, The Gods must be crazy, telling the story of an isolated San tribe which is disturbed by a glass Coca-Cola bottle fallen from a plane.

As often, getting there is half the fun. The entrance to the park is now a 2 and a half drive from Upington, the nearest « town ». The new road to the entrance is now tared, but back then it was a 4 and a half hours drive on a gravel road. Driving from Pretoria is a long 10 hours drive (equal time from Cape Town), which make this area one of the remotest in South Africa.

Nature is here at its best. Far less travelled than Kruger Park, you get the chance to have all kind of different animal for yourself. I saw cheetahs from very close, with their cubs, lions, gemsboks, spingboks, and giant nest of weavers (see picture). The landscape is desertic, with large reddish dunes. Vegetation is sparse, with occasional trees, and river bed most often dry.

I slept two nights in rest camp in the Park, in Mata Mata. They was basic rooms and a small shop, enough to buy some meat for a traditional South African braai (barbecue). Nowaday, rest camps have swimming pools, but they still is wilderness camps, with small chalet or tents. Staying overnight and eating a braai in the middle of the African desert is a magical experience.

Back then, and even more now, crossing to Botswana is allowed, without visa or passport control, as long as you stay in the Kalahari-Gemsbok and the Gemsbok National Parks (forming together the Botswana-South African Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park). Driving to Namibia from Mata Mata was not allowed back then, but now possible if you spend two nights in the Park.

The justification of OUV extensively refers to the ǂKhomani and related San people who have been surviving by hunting and gathering in this arid environment. It mentions the unique technology and way of life and their cultural practice and tradition. The natural aspect of the ares is not included in the justification of OUV. I regret it, because the natural landscape are magnificiant, and wildlife fascinating.

Back then, apart from seeing some people walking along the road in the middle of nowhere, and some isolated houses, I did not see much of the ǂKhomani Xan culture. It was not emphisaized back then, no signs or information plate. It seems easier to see nowadays, as there is a some of the area has been declared Heritage Park, with an open air living museum and a lodg managed by the Xan people.

Was it worth the long road to get there ? I would say yes, especially if you like off-the-beaten tracks travelling and avoidind crowds.

Is it of OUV ? I would also say yes, but I would have gone for a mixed cutural and natural justification. ICOMOS seem to agree and recommends to defer the nomination.