When I first read about visiting Upper Svaneti about 15 year ago, travel guidebooks were advising not to get there on your own, because of a risk of kidnapping and theft. How things have changed now !

Visiting Upper Svaneti is still an experience. First thing is to get to the town of Mestia. It is a 8 hours drive from Tbilissi. The road in the moutains is in quite good condition (be careful however, because of a few rough stretches). The scenary is wonderful with views on 5000 meters high peaks. On the way, stop at Enguri dam, as Georgian authorities are thinking od adding this hydro-electric complex on the TL.  There are many collective taxis (marutchka) getting to Mestia, often changing in Zugdidi, the town at the feet of the mountains. Alternatively you can get a plane from Tbilissi to Mestia, but Mestia airport is very small and highly subject to bad weather. Flights are often cancelled at the last minute.

In Mestia, there are plenty of hotels and guesthouse. I would recommand Nino Tatiani’s guesthouse, with a very friendly atmosphere and very nice buffet meals. In the central place of Mestia is Leila’s restaurant. It has daily shows of traditional polyphonic song performed (which are on the UNESCO immaterial list).

The road from Mestia to Ushguli is rather rough. It is recommanded to take a marusutchka or a private car to drive this 50 km long road, which will take 2 to 3 hours. Most hotels or guesthouse in Mestia can organize the transport (Nino organized for me to join other guests in a common private rental car). The road is sometimes very rough, but if you have a 4x4 car, it would not be too difficult to get there on your own.  

Ushguli is a community of several isolated medieval villages, high in the mountains, at 2200 meter. Only one village, Chazhashi, is inscribed as WHS. This particular village is the most authentic, with some 20 medieval tower houses. Some are in a very bad state of conservation, while other have been turned into museums. Walking around this village is very atmospheric. People still live in the village, and livestock are wandering around.

Most private rental car would leave you 3 to 4 hours to wander around Ushguli. The driver would usually drop you off at Lamaria church complex, on a hill above all the villages. It should not to be missed, even if not part of the WHS. There is very nice views toward the moutains peaks (over 5200 meters high) and the glaciers from here. Then you can walk down the hill, crossing Chvibiani village toward Chazhashi. Some small museums, guesthouses and cafe on the way. If you have time, there is a small walk to Murkmeli village.

It is also possible to hike to Ushguli, with a five-days trek from Mestia.

In my opinion, it is very worth the long trip to get to Ushguli. I was disappointed by the small scale on this WHS, inluding only one of the village, and I would have liked it to include all the villages and the mountains surrounding them.