Wojciech Fedoruk 3.5
Ruins Of Kilwa Kisiwani And Songo Mnara
Ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara (Inscribed)

From the two inscribed locations, I only saw Kilwa Kisiwani. Kilwa Kisiwani is a vast ruin of the city which has been an important political and trade center from around the 8th century AD and since the 10th century the capital of the Sultanate of Kilwa. According to legend, the sultanate was founded by the rulers of Shiraz and, although historical sources do not currently confirm this thesis, it seems to be considered true among locals - the guide told me the same.
Regardless of the origin of the founders, the continuation of Kilwa Kisiwani's history is better documented. The Sultanate of Kilwa existed until the beginning of the 16th century. Its fall occurred with the arrival of the Portuguese, who, however, quickly gave way to the Omani.
All these rulers have left magnificent buildings in Kilwa Kisiwani. I started my trip from the Husuni Kubwa Palace, the spectacular ruins of the Sultan's Palace from the 14th century, i.e. from the times of the Kilwa Sultanate. The ruins are very well preserved and give a good idea of how powerful this kingdom was - the palace is really spacious and equipped with many novelties, such as the first (at least according to the guide) swimming pool in Africa. From the 14th-century well dug by the slaves of the Sultan the inhabitants of the surrounding village still draw water - I saw it with my own eyes!
Husuni Kubwa Palace is about a kilometer to the remaining ruins and a 15-20 minute walk among rural buildings. Walking in the heat and in high humidity is not the most pleasant, although watching the local life partially rewards it. The largest group of ruins is located in the northwestern tip of the island. I started my tour from the old cemetery of the Sultan and his family, and then went to the most spectacular part of the ruins of Makutani Palace (a magnificent palace from Omani period) and the Great Mosque - the first congregational mosque in Sub-Saharan Africa. The last building visited was a well-preserved fort (see photo) - built by the Portuguese during their short reign on the island, but enlarged and improved by the Omani.
Overall, the ruins are in good condition, the maintenance is ongoing, and there seems to be no reason to consider Kilwa Kisiwani as World Heritage in Danger (it was removed from that list in 2014). The sheer volume of buildings that remain gives a good idea of how powerful Kilwa once was. A definitely well-deserved inscription and one of the most interesting places on the Tanzanian UNESCO list. For me, a great start of 2021 (I visited the ruins exactly on New Year's Day).
I reached Kilwa Masoko from Selous Game Reserve. The journey takes about three hours, on a terrible road that can only be traveled safely by motorbike or off-road jeep. The advantage of driving these bumps was the possibility of observing real life in the Tanzanian countryside. I went back directly to Dar es Salaam and the journey took about five and a half hours. My trip to Kilwa Masoko was pre-arranged by the safari company, but you can arrange everything on the spot. Buses run from Dar es Salaam and the visitor center with guides is 300 m from the port where dhows depart to the Kilwa Kisiwani ruins. If anyone is interested, I provide information on a local guide with whom everything can be arranged directly - Saidi, tel / whatsapp +255682717141. Note, it's better to have shorts with you, because at Husuni Kubwa Palace you disembark straight into the shallow water!
Kilwa Masoko is a quite popular city with decent hotel base. I had the pleasure of living in a house 100 meters from the beach, watching hundreds of people walking on the beach and celebrating the New Year.
If someone is interested in visiting Songo Mnara, it can also be arranged in Kilwa Masoko, but due to the distance, you need to book at least half a day for it. The visit to Kilwa Kisiwani took me about 2-3 hours.
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