Tserkvas of Vladimir and Suzdal are among the best preserved sacral buildings in Russia. Even during Stalinism they did not suffer that much (although many of numerous tserkvas in Suzdal were closed or destroyed, still most of them survived). Now these two places are probably the most interesting part of Golden Circle not only for WHS fans.

I arrived early in Vladimir and took the first bus to Suzdal. Fortunately, in the morning the site was not as crowded as it was some hours later, so I could praise the beauty of the town and take photos uninterrupted. Suzdal is like a large skansen, absolutely unique place in Russia and all former Soviet Union. All important tserkvas and monasteries are within a walking distance, but seeing them requires some time and physical effort. For me even more important than visiting particular buildings (inscribed or not) was just wandering around the town and admiring its landscape.

On the practical side, the journey from Vladimir to Suzdal takes 1 hour, but the bus station is around 2 km from the town centre. Direct buses extend their route to the center and I recommend using it (there is extra fee of about 20 rubles). Indirect buses (to Ivanovo) stop only at the bus station.

Unlike Suzdal, Vladimir is a large city, very well connected with major Russian cities. The main monuments are not so far from the train/bus station, so you may walk or take a city bus/tram. The number one is undisputedly Assumption Cathedral with original frescos by Andrei Rublov (on a side, to take a good background I strongly recommend watching Rublov by Andrei Tarkovski before going to Golden Circle) and with beautiful iconostas founded by Catherine the Great. Entrance fee is 100 rubles and I suggest going there with a guide.

Another listed cathedral, St. Demetrius, is much smaller and poorer inside (which is in fact closer to original, as orthodox churches were rather ascetic in XIIth century). The third inscribed building in Vladimir is the Golden Gate, the most significant remaining of the city walls, which gives a view of how they looked several hundred years ago.

Famous Church of the Intercession on the Nerl in Bogolyubovo is easily reachable from Vladimir by direct bus 152 from the city centre. Then I had to walk around 1.5-2km on the meadow without any shadow, which in full July sun and temperature about 35 degrees was not very pleasant. During my visit the track was full of tourists, so it was not even possible to make a good photo of the church in this 'iconic' surrounding. As a result, unlike other reviewers, I did not like that particular church, although I am aware that it was the inspiration of most of newer tserkvas of that region.