I traveled here years ago while teaching English in Tokyo.  I had a vacation, had already traveled widely, and this place caught my eye, for its obscurity.  Administratively, the islands are part of the city of Tokyo, even though they’re on the same latitude as Okinawa, much further out into the Pacific than any other Japanese islands.  Iwo Jima, where the US Marines raised their flag on 23 February 1945, is part of the island group, but civilian visitation is almost completely restricted.  Another island was also off limits when I visited, due to a Japanese military base.  At the time, traveling by ferry in the cheapest class seemed like an interesting travel experience, and I remember lying around on fake tatami mats, eating snacks and drinking beer.  Speaking Japanese helped, as I chatted with folks my own age, and it was fun when the boat rolled in some seas.  We all went ‘whoa’ together, tried not to slide, and then chuckled nervously.  

When I finally arrived in Chichijima (Dad Island), I was surprised to find many young people from around the world visiting, and they asked me if I was there to watch the international junior surfing championships.  Apparently, during the typhoon season—late summer/ early fall—, there’s epic swell that attracts some of the world’s best surfers.  I hadn’t planned to watch, but I did wander around a few beaches without seeing much actual surfing.  On the other hand, I did spend a lot of time with several surfers from America, South Africa and Australia, among other countries, translating for them.  One group had a lot of difficulty with their traditional bed and breakfast, until I bridged the cultural and language divide.  So, I ended up getting invited to join some surfers, drinking a lot on the beach and listening to music at night.  And I didn’t actually see as many of the sights as I had planned.  It was a very relaxing, fun and different vacation for me.  

If I had it to do over again, I would not go.  Hahajima (Mom Island) is another 2 hour ferry ride from Chichijima.  Long, slow ferry rides let you experience what it’s like to be cargo: boring.  I don’t remember the food being particularly good, and it was very difficult to get around.  There was a rumor that the bus would take my Tokyo transit pass, but I don’t remember ever seeing a bus.  I got rides from locals and spent my time looking at tropical beaches and cliffs in lush jungle.  Lots of people told me about the Bonin Islands flying fox, but I didn’t see any.  I also remember being disappointed that I couldn’t see any of the historic battle sites, which would have made the experience more memorable.  

Niijima in the Izu Islands is far easier to get to from Tokyo by fast ferry 3 hours or less than an hour flying.  And they also have pretty beaches and good surfing.  But, if you’re really interested in world heritage sites, and you can sit on the floor of a ferry for 24 hours with Japanese discount travelers, then maybe you would enjoy it.