Probably the most hidden cultural site, tucked behind the new massive Mary church and no sign to indicate it is there. Google map has it as “Old Mary Church” and whereas the site has the correct coordinates too, a review on Google mentioning it is UNESCO made me very sure it is the right place because arriving here is rather shocking. Sure, ruins, but flooded crypts with sludge and trash inside covering what was probably the best part. You really see NOTHING here of value although the local church is still considering it as such, with a new wooden church placed inside the ruins (also seems controversial but whatever). I walked around 7-8 minutes which was already more than enough to see all and be extremely disappointed. A record for fastest WHS visit.

I asked the driver from Cairo to make a small detour to see it. Nobody knows about this place, he was shocked to find that this is the place he wants me to stop and not the big church. “Finish?!” It isn't far from Alexandria, maybe 1h. In all honesty if you don't go to see this there is a high chance it gets de-listed anyway. It has been on the In Danger list ever since the World Bank funded projected raised the water level and the crypt is now in the process of being destroyed. One would think they can protect it better but there seems to be no indication of that happening. Judging from the measly sign at the entrance there is really no desire to do so anyway. I am surprised there was a microvan with students visiting.

Pro-tip: you don't have to drive THROUGH the new church area to reach this, and in fact you don't want to due to police checkpoints. There is a small paved road turning off right just before the first checkpoint that leads to the old church, again no sign or anything