First published: 21/01/20.

Zoë Sheng 4.0

Belize Barrier Reef

Belize Barrier Reef (Inscribed)

Belize Barrier Reef by Zoë Sheng

How could I NOT like this place as both a scuba diver and nature lover!


I went to 3 places although I'm confused about the third. Does Bacalar Chico marine reserve include Amergris Caye or not!? I only went on a night dive from San Pedro (full moon makes for the best night dives!!) I know the park has a ranger station with a museum but it doesn't seem worth it, not many trips go out there and I think chances to see a jaguar are as likely in any other park in Belize and espresso northern Guatemala, and by chance I mean like 0.001%.


I took the same trip as Frédéric from Caye Caulker. It takes 2½h to reach the famous blue hole and most people have seen the beautiful birdview picture online, but as you actually anchor on the line you wouldn't really know you are there. I wanted to do skydiving but it's not offered anymore, but anyway the Blue Hole is a marvel.


If you don't dive you'll get very little out of this place and novice divers only went to 24m (78 feet) and there is absolutely nothing to see. Limestone all around and hardly any fishes. I did spot midnight parrotfish as the only exceptional fish although I think it's mainly rare because they aren't in waters I usually dive before. There were supposed to be sharks but nothing on that day. However, go below 40m (that's 130 feet for imperials) and it becomes an acid trip. Even if nitrogen narcosis doesn't kick in you will feel you have just entered a new world. All blue, stalactites, columns, one glides through them  for a few minutes until your dive computer tells you to go shallower. It was all worth it. Hard to describe but it has to be experienced. The total dive is only 30min at the most because there isn't much else to see at the Blue Hole.


So whereas the BH was a great experience, Half Moon Caye is much better. One can come here as camper or snorkeler too. The island has turtle nesting grounds, birds including red-footed booby, several dive sites around. The dive boat stopped here for lunch and I saw what is probably the closest thing to a UNESCO plaque and an entry price for the two sites. Apparently one paid B$40 for the Blue Hole and B$20 for HM Caye. That explains the slightly higher dive trip costs.

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