It took me 2 years to get into Pakistan. 4 trips to the embassy to request a hiking trip up around Gilgit coming from the Karakoram Highway but I still couldn't convince the officer it was safe and the tour agency didn't seem helpful once they got their money for an invitation letter. Since then there is e-visa. For me I have to apply for a business visa, also a first, but it seems most arriving on a business don't really business here and just pay for an invitation letter. On the other hand, visa fee was waived.

The immigration officer fell heads over heals for me (alternate motive? paving a path to get abroad or my getting his hands on my imaginary monopoly money piles? Second wife? But anyhow he offered to take me out to Mardan and Taxila and my welcome to Pakistan couldn't be better. I met him up at the Taxila museum which I explored on my own. There is a nice app for the museum that will make some display cases easier to understand, although the security guard gave me a rundown of the first one as well (I stopped him not wanting a guide or start shelling out tips for services I didn't ask for). Whereas the museum isn't bad and makes for a good introduction, it's a real shame that they ripped out many artefacts from the original locations to display here.

Second stop was Jaulian, the old monastery. This is probably a must see amongst all available sites. It requires a separate ticket because you cross state lines (as far as I understand). 500 is still a decent ticket price for how much you get to see. Very to the actual site requires some steps, a lot of steps actually, and October is still warm here. A few guides will greet you at the top. I believe this is included in the price although they do expect a tip. Without them it would be hard to see anything here and they have to unlock gates for you. My highlight was the chapel with the lovely carved niche, not ripped out and places into the museum. Many other stupas have been damaged over time and only some parts are clrarly visible. The entire place is covered with a roof but rain waa hardly the worst offender here. Fire, earthquakes, invasions did much damage. According to the guide 80% is still hidden under dirt, but lack of funding, expertise, policies, protocol, all prevent this from being done - but I also wonder what would be down there worth digging up of we already saw the main stupa.

For me this was Pakistan's top site (although kinda of on par with the gardens in Lahore).