Castel del Monte

My last 3 remaining WHSs in Italy were spread all over the country (Aquileia in the north-east, Barumini in Sardinia and Castel del Monte in the south) and were giving me headaches. After visiting Aquileia and upon finding out that it's only around 30 Euros each to fly from Venice Treviso to Cagliari in Sardinia and from Cagliari to Bari in the south on Ryanair, I just decided to finish them up once and for all (even though the 25 hour stay in Sardinia in winter didn't sound right). 

But this is about Castel del Monte outside Bari. 

Transportation: 

There is no bus whatsoever in winter from Andria (or Corato), the nearest train stations to the Castel. But I did find after a painstaking online research that there was one bus (not on Sundays) leaving Bari at 14:10 for Spinazzola, stopping at the Castel at 15:05 on the way. (The webpage says the timetable is effective from September 2017 to June 2018 and last updated in November 2017.) 

I was supposed to have 40 min. in Bari (between my train arrival from Altamura and the bus departure to Castel) to buy the bus ticket and to find the bus . But the train from Altamura arrived 30 min. late, so I had only 10 min. in Bari. The center of Bari has 3 train stations operated by different train companies and several bus stops around them, so it was not an easy task, especially when pulling …

In July 2015 I visited Castel del Monte, driving from the hard-to-like city of Bari. As far as anyone can tell, this castle was never used as a military stronghold. Indeed, it was never intended as such, but as a grand ‘statement piece’. Frederick II had been involved in the Crusades, and this castle was imbued with symbolism, being a blend of Classical, Islamic and contemporary European features.

Why the octagons? The roof of Aachen Cathedral – where Holy Roman Emperors such as Frederick were crowned – has an octagonal roof. The Dome of the Rock – Jerusalem’s most important Muslim shrine – is also of octagonal construction. Thus, Castel del Monte was designed to embrace the octagon as a symbol of peace between the Christian and Muslim civilisations.

So, a fascinating history. But I have to say that to visit the site is not such a thrill. We had to park up at the bottom of the hill and then pay a grumpy bus driver to take us up to the castle. Then it is a separate entrance fee to get inside the building, in which you can see … not very much. The castle is entirely empty, and not particularly large. It was in pretty poor nick when restoration work began, and they have certainly made it feel pristine again. Perhaps a little too pristine, judging by the bright orange of this column! But what do I know, maybe it was like that in Frederick’s time.

I visited this WHS in June 2014. I ventured on an early morning drive in the Alta Murgia National Park. The drive past rolling hills with red poppies, cherry trees and olive trees was already a good start but standing alone on a promontory in the middle of the park was the Castel del Monte. There is a huge parking lot about 800 metres from it where I left my car and with the 5 euro ticket I got a return shuttle bus ride to the WHS. The castle is in a very good state and it really gleams in sunny weather. Its octagonal plan is really unique and several information boards inside the empty castle give you detailed info on the history, architecture and significance of this site. The courtyard is the main highlight inside the castle but other than that the 5 euro entrance fee doesn't offer much. The panoramic views from the castle are not to be missed and I think that opening the castle's terrace/roof in the future would make a much more interesting visit. I finished off my visit with a hearty snack near Andria - Focaccia Bread with Burratina ... bliss!

My name is Enrico Altavilla. I am a direct descendant of Frederick II, the once King of Southern Italy for whom the Castel Del Monte was built. It is said that Frederick had a good friend who was an Alchemist. When Frederick was in the process of designing the castle, he consulted with this particular friend. The layout of the castle follows some of the suggestions made. The elements, fire and water are arranged in the castle in line with these recommendations. One of the eight octagonal towers which circle the castle, was used by Frederick II as an Aviary which housed his Falcons. Frederick actually wrote at least one book on the topic of Falconry. I am proud of my ancestor for both his intellect and power when going into battle. To this day in Sicily, they celebrate the victory experienced against the invading army of Turkey which was lead by Frederick. May the Castel Del Monte serve as a monument which stands for 'Mens Conscia Recti'. The Altavilla Motto which translated means, ' A Mind Conscious Of Right'.

Castel del Monte is a true architectural masterpiece and one of the most famous castles in the world (it even features on the Italian 1-cent coin). Constructed by the highly educated, multilingual Emperor Frederick II, there is a definite magical atmosphere to be felt there. To be sure, the inside of the castle is slightly disappointing, since it's completely empty, but the sight of it from far away as you approach it is spectacular. It was not used for a very long time, and then only for falconry, so not much has changed since Frederick's days. The rule of the German dynasty of Hohenstaufen in southern Italy has left many traces there, especially in the form of castles in lots of cities, but none surpass Castel del Monte in sheer beauty and splendor.

The castle has been built on a hill, in the middle of nowhere. To find the road to nowhere was not so easy, the signposting is a bit scarce, but find it I did. You can see the castle from afar, towering above the endless number of olive trees in the quite lovely environment.

The perfect octagonal shape of the building is its main asset. Among the many comparisons that can be made, the Taj Mahal also sprang to my mind. The special kind of limestone with quartz used here from a distance looks like marble (from which the Taj is made). And the Moghuls had some inspirations in common with Frederick.

I also took a look inside, but there's not much to see anymore. It is hard to picture how people have lived here. From the many stories mystifying this castle, I didn't get the impression that it was used regularly. Probably it was "just" meant as a work of art. And for that the Castel del Monte still is admired, more than 750 years after its construction.