Chengjiang Fossil Site

The Chengjiang Fossil Site, in Yunnan Province, is a must-visit for paleontology enthusiasts and those fascinated by the Cambrian Explosion, a pivotal moment in Earth’s history 520 million years ago.

However, the original fossil site, including key areas like the Maotianshan Shales where the first discoveries were made in 1984, are now permanently closed to the public. This closure, in place to protect the fragile fossil-bearing strata from further disturbance, means you can no longer visit the iconic dig sites or the Chinese Academy of Sciences research building, bellow described as a trilobite-shaped structure (now locked and unused).

Instead, the experience has shifted to the Chengjiang Fossil Site Natural History Museum, located a short distance from the core zone, likely to comply with UNESCO preservation regulations and cater to growing tourism. The museum, opened in 2021, is a modern facility with free admission offering a fascinating window into the Cambrian Explosion, but the permanent closure of the original dig site and limited access to authentic fossil beds slightly diminish the hands-on experience.

Getting there is straightforward: buses from Kunming South Passenger Station to Chengjiang County cost ~CNY 20 (50 minutes), followed by a ~CNY 100 taxi to the museum. (There is also an option to take a public bus from the station to the museum, but I don’t remember the number.)

The Chengjiang Fossil Site comprises preserved fossils of sea creatures that lived in a shallow sea some 530 million years ago. Although it was a shoo-in at the 2012 WHC and IUCN regarded it “an emblematic site for the record of life in the Cambrian period”, it has the questionable honour to be among the 10 lowest-rated WHS on this website. Unfortunately, I could not raise that score. I visited it right after Zuojiang Huashan, which meant two disappointing WHS in a row with a lot of hard travelling in between. It makes one sometimes wonder what the point is of ticking off this kind of sites.

I visited Chengjiang from Kunming. Although the distance is only about 60km, from door to door it took me 3 hours by metro, bus and taxi. And the same amount of time back of course, which turns even the quickest visit into almost a full-day trip. The local taxi driver at Chengjiang bus station knew exactly where to go when I uttered ‘Maotianshan’. He offered to wait as well, obviously knowing that people do not spend lots of time there. The return trip cost me 180 yuan.

It’s a pleasant drive out into the countryside and into the hills. After some 20 minutes, you arrive at the gate of the Geopark. Here the driver had to enter his car details into a list (and probably his personal info as well, as IDs are checked in China all day anywhere). Somewhat further …

Fossil sites generally mean museum. I see how there is a difference between the fossils and the Earth has a long history, but they are still boring to me. I also don't find them worthy of their inclusion for specific reasons or superlatives. They should be studied, protected, but they are definitely not a tourist attraction. You would have to specialize in this topic to really get into it like a real science geek. What I saw in Canada was kind of interesting. Joggins did the tour, made you search for fossils, told you about it. In Switzerland you get an interactive museum and it kind of tries to suck you into liking what is pretty much just a book in 3D with pictures. Chengjiang does nothing of the sorts. You have to hire a taxi for great costs to get there and even local drivers don't know where it is. I asked for Maotianshan and the driver kind of knew it. Eventually we found a parking lot with an attendant. Entrance is free. Walking up the hill still feels kind of exciting but once you get to the run-down museum you quickly feel like this was not worth it. I did not even take any pictures from the fossil site but instead a video of the nice view from the mountain, and this being a few years ago the phone camera was rather shitty.

So the museum is a few panels and a pile of fossil rocks. I …

[Visited Chengjiang Fossil Site on Apr. 5, 2018]

THE LOGISTICS

Chengjiang Fossil Site was somewhat an easy day trip from Kunming. The metro connectivity from the airport took an hour to Kunming South Passenger Coach Station. There were hourly buses for 18 RMB to Chengjiang County taking another hour via an expressway. And the ease of visiting this WHS stopped upon arriving at bus station. After almost three years from the last review, the situation of going to and of the site itself had not change - still no public transport except hiring a car, taxi or Didi (Chinese Uber for those with no Mandarin knowledge).

There’s Chengjiang Fossil Land Exhibition Hall in front of the bus station but that’s not the main reason to visit. Scrolling at the Didi app, there’s Chengjiang Fossil Site Museum which seemed somewhere near or at the inscribed area - a logical choice to see. The drive would have cost 35 RMB and took about 30 minutes but the driver missed the right turn so we ended up cruising along the banks of Fuxing lake, a nice diversion that I did not mind paying twice the amount.

To my surprise Chengjiang Fossil Site Museum, about 2 km uphill from the resorts construction boom of the Fuxian Lake Scenic Area, was still under construction and likely NOT inside the inscribed area. There’s no return transport from there either. Luckily, the driver was still around and knowing I was a captive market with limited Mandarin skills …

I just visited the site yesterday from Kunming. Due to road works had to take another route which took 2 hours by car. The parking was deserted, with 2 people there, one from a shop and the other for cleaning? No entrance fee to be paid and the entrance office looked like it was not manned in a long time. The building of the first dig was open to see. with background information. The signs on the road to main building had great information. Main building closed and looking through some windows it looked like it hadn't been open for a long time. everything very deserted. The person from the shop guaranteed had no key (offered money). with my best Chinese understood something parts had moved to Nanjing? but i cannot confirm this.

HOwever, i do not regret going. after went to Fuxian lake for a nice lunch.

on my site see photo's, GPS map and little more info.

Thanks Thomas, your review was extremaly helpful to reach the site from Kunming. Currently (November-December 2012) the situation changed a bit as there is an entry fee to visit the museum - exhibition (20 Yuan, which is not bad comparing to other places in China). Once you are there insist on opening the place of initial fossil's finding, photo attached (it is in the separate pavilion, usually closed, so you should ask the girls in the museum to open it for you, no additional fee required as this is part of exhibition).

Of course as a not-at-all Chinese speaking person I did not manage to get as good price for a motorbike as it was stated (For me that was 100 Yuan, I guess normal price for a 3-4 hours journey, that's the time you'll probably devote in the site).

The whole place is interesting, not well known by people in Chengjiang town (there are no signs of the site in the town)

I'm currently living in Kunming, so was able to make this a relatively easily day trip (June 27, 2012). I took a cab to Kunming's Southern Bus Station (Nanbu qiche keyun zhan) and from there purchased a bus ticket to Chengjiang (17 kuai). I was the only Westerner on the small bus, though some teenagers on it knew some relatively advanced English and were thrilled to have an opportunity to speak it. Upon arrival at the Chengjiang bus station, three small tri-wheeled taxis argued over getting to take me to Maotianshan (Hat Sky Mountain), the central area of the Chenjiang Fossil Site. I was able to negotiate the initial quote of 100 kuai down to 75 kuai for the 22 kilometer trip with ease. My Chinese is only intermediate, but I think the taxi I took was the only one of the three who knew where Maotianshan was. This may change if Chengjiang receives World Heritage status next week.

The ride up to Maotianshan was beautiful, passing through two farmland areas and two parts of Chengjiang city. The taxi, which, like the others, was an open-doored box with two benches facing each other, had some difficulties getting up Maotianshan, and I had to shift benches to help balance my weight. My taxi driver was incredibly friendly and (unprompted) stopped at a streetside vendor to get me lunch. As we went up the mountain and into the protected area, I could see some phosphate mining and signs of old, now reforested …