Mtskheta

The Historical Monuments of Mtskheta are all about the Georgian Orthodox Church, celebrating the introduction of Christianity in Georgia in the year 317. Three medieval religious buildings in the ancient capital of Mtskheta were selected to represent different phases in Georgian ecclesiastical architecture: the Jvari Monastery, the Svetitstkhoveli Cathedral and the Samtavro Monastery.

Mtskheta is an easy half-day trip from the capital Tbilisi by marshrutka. Once you have arrived within the town limits of Mtskheta, you have to pay attention to where to exit the bus - the trick is to stay on until you are right in front of the big cathedral, ignoring all the loops it does first around town and across the river. I spent about 3 hours in Mtskheta, including a ride back and forth by taxi to the Jvari monastery on a hill outside the city.

The Svetitstkhoveli cathedral towers high above everything in the city. One enters through a large gate, with two bull heads on both sides: these are pagan fertility symbols. The courtyard is spacious, with a neat lawn that is forbidden to walk on. The outer walls of the cathedral display some interesting reliefs, made out of red stone that stands out against the grey of the rest. In general, though, I found the reliëfs here in Georgia to be quite simple. It may be a result of local taste or a sign of lack of wealth that decoration is so limited.

In comparison to the other churches …

This is the site really deserving of inscription. Historical significance of this place justifies its presence on WHS list. Beautiful Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari are highlights of this site, but it's worth to go for a stroll and see old streets of Mtskheta. The best way to get to this ancient town from Tbilisi is marshrutka: cheap and quite comfortable. I recommend to take a taxi from Mtskheta to see Jvari Monastery.

Site visited just recently (July 2013). Mtskheta lies just outside Tbilisi city limits and is easily accessible by local marszrutka (from Didube bus station, quite frequent buses, approximately every 20-30 minutes, the whole journey takes similar time, ticket costs 1 Lari per person).

Mtskheta as a town (not more than 5 thousand inhabitants) is a small relaxing place, very quiet comparing to busy (and hot) Tbilisi, there are some private flats for rent (rooms) - full list of them available from local tourist information (just outside Svetitskhoveli Cathedral).

It is possible to visit all 3 places (Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Jvari and Samtawro monasteries) in one day but at least visit to Jvari requires some preparation. It can be reached by foot (ask for details at tourist info spot) or by taxi (count at least 20 Lari for both ways). All 3 places may as far be visited free of charge.

I travelled to the Soviet Union in 1990. Georgia was part of the tour and Tblisi was my favourite city to visit, as the people were warm and friendly. We had also been to the hectic city of Moscow beforehand and the slower, peaceful pace of Tblisi was a welcome change. I don't remember much about Mtskheta but I have pictures of the site to prove I was there. But I do remember eating some wonderful hot bread (similar to a baguette) after the tour!

Mtskheta is the ancient capital of Georgia and its Cathedral is the “capital” of the Georgian Church and the burial place of Georgian Kings. It only lies around 25kms outside Tblisi and, if you are in the country, should be seen. It is probably best taken in as part of a trip along the Georgian Military road towards Russia.

On the other side of the river, and easily accessible if you are coming from Tblisi in your own transport lies the Monastery of Djvari. This provides fine views across the valley to the town and cathedral which dominates it (photo).

The Cathedral is pleasant enough but, in my opinion, lacks the interest and fine siting of some other “churches” in Georgia – in particular Gelati (which is a WHS – see review) and 2 more which you can see along the Military road. These are (neither is even on the Tentative List)

a. The “Fortress Monastery” at Ananuri – beautifully situated by a lake (the dam which created this reservoir was, we were told, going to flood this church but, even in Soviet times, enough pressure could be brought upon the government to prevent this). It also has fine murals.

b. The Mtatsminda Zameta (Church of the Trinity) high on a windswept hill above the village of Kasbegi looking out to the snow capped peak of Mt Kazbeg (5033 mtrs). This is only accessible by foot or 4x4. (Visited Jul 2000)