
The effect from “Beast from the East” made my whole week of Italian trip on the Adriatic side of the Apennine to be miserably cold and wet, but when I crossed the Apennine to Tuscany, I was blessed with warmer temperature and some occasionally shower rain. Initially I was really happy that such kind of weather normally will create a wonderful mist in the morning, a perfect moment for photographers to make landscape photo for rolling hills of Val d’Orcia. However, when I reach Val d’Orcia area, heavy rain welcomed me, so heavy that I could not see anything except the road. I had no choice but to change my plan and directly went to Pienza. The rains continued until lunchtime and finally stopped at 2 PM, but even no rain, the sky was cloudy and rarely had sunshine, a worst element for photographing.
I drove out to San Quirico d’ Orcia from Pienza, along the way there were two famous spots for shooting photo. The first one was at the entrance road to Agriturismo Podorino B&B, the stunning view of Chapel Vitaleta on green hill from here was so lovely. Another spot was the behind the grove of trees near the bus stop before Ristorante La Taverna Del Barbarossa. From here was where the famous photo of Podere Belevede which become an iconic image of lonely mansion in Tuscany made. The view was great but because of cloudy sky I was really disappointed. After that I shortly drove …
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Be aware that getting to this place is not easy. The rental company will most likely already forbid you to drive on the unpaved 843 road anyway but if you are like me and defy them then make sure you have a 4WD. Also if you look at the map you will see a "shortcut" which is even advised by Google navi... DON'T. This is just a collection of large boulders forming a downhill sort of path. You will damage the car for sure. In fact there are a lot of these "shortcuts" not marked on google you would never think about taking but apparently this one got added to the map at one point. Drive along the normal 843 gravel route towards the driveway leading to Kvetera Fortress. Got a 4WD? Then you can actually drive all the way up this narrow road. If not then I doubt you will make it and, again, like me, have to reverse down and park it along the grassy patches. Walking up the rest doesn't take too long and I would have done earlier knowing the issues up ahead. Anyhow, so you FINALLY made it up there, yay!
The fortress is basically just a collection of walls now. There is one building left standing without a roof. The main attraction is the tiny cute church though. The roof is well maintained and even from the outside it looks adorable. The listing is trying to get it inscribed for the architecture but I …
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The Kuwait Towers (Abraj Al-Kuwait in Arabic) is the most promising entry on Kuwait’s Tentative List. A visit is a great excuse to immerse yourself in the recent history of Kuwait. Next to the brash United Arab Emirates and Qatar, Kuwait is often overlooked. But economically it has bounced back nicely after recovering from the Iraqi occupation during the Gulf War (1990-1991). It has the fourth highest per capita income in the world according to the World Bank, and it is considered the region’s shining example on liberal achievements such as press freedom and gender equality.
The Towers are conveniently located in the heart of Kuwait City. They store water that is pumped from seawater distillation plants, and thus represent the network of modern water distribution among the population. The 3 that are known as the Kuwait Towers are the showpieces among the 34 water towers from the 1970s that lie scattered around Kuwait. Ironically only 1.5 out of these 3 provide the core function of storing water (the second one holds a viewing tower cum restaurant on top of the water reservoir and the third one only is there to illuminate the other two and for decoration I guess!).
The Kuwait Towers were damaged for 75% during the Iraqi occupation, but as the object of national identity they were rebuilt quickly and reopened in 1992. They date from the period that Kuwait enjoyed such a great oil-driven prosperity that it was equalled by few if any country around the …
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I enjoy a good botanical garden when traveling, so I looked forward to visiting the Botanical Garden in Padua last year, even though I knew I would be visiting out of season. The Orto Botanico was constructed almost five hundred years ago, and started a tradition of botanical research that can be seen in gardens worldwide. Considering its age, I set my expectations appropriately low enough, since there are many other gardens that cover more ground or feature a wider variety of plants from different climatic zones. The heritage section of the garden is laid out in a simple pattern, with a mixture of historic trees, medicinal and rare plants, and aquatic gardens on display. The garden is small enough that it didn't take long to traverse. Some of the plants were still in bloom, and some of the trees still had fruit in October; still, the cool breeze was a reminder winter was on its way. I think I'd like to return sometime in the spring or summer to see the garden when more plants are in bloom. Of note, there is a newer indoor botanical garden featuring plants from a variety of climates that you can visit on the same admission ticket. I still enjoyed the heritage garden more.
Logistics: The Botanical Garden of Padua is located south of the city center of Padua, and is a short walk south from the square in front of the Basilica of Saint Anthony.
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Samtavisi Cathedral is located about an hour drive from Tbilissi, close to the Gori highway. It can been seen from the highway bridge crossing the Lekhura river. To get there, use Kaspi exit and get to the small village (Igoeti on google map) immediatly south of the highway. Most marshrutka (collective taxi) do stop in Igoeti on demand. A small tunnel passes under the highway. The road passes a police station, and goes north for about 1 km north.
This almost square cathedral, was built in 1030, and was partially reconstructed in the 15th and 19th centuries, after earthquake destructions. The eastern façade is original (on the picture). It was built on the site of an earlier monastery built in 472.
The brief description on the unesco site does not clearly specify its OUV. It seems to be a first example of a new design of religious building, with a shortend longitudinal axis and a more compact an intimate interal space. This quare-shaped design remains enchanged in the following centuries.
Entrance is free, through a nice 17th century gate belfry. In the courtyard are the remains of the bishop’s residence, of another church and of several tombs. Feel free to push the small door on the north side of the cathedral to get a glimpse of the interior.
I really enjoyed visiting this small cathedral, probably because it was the first monument I visited after my arrival in Georgia, and the first Orthodox church. I had the site for myself …
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Hoi An is utterly charming and one of the picturesque town in Vietnam. I had two weeks in Hoi An and bought two tickets, which allowed me to visit 10 of the sites in town (you get 5 per ticket). The town itself allows you to really see what a traditional trading port looks like. Most of the buildings date from the 18th century, although there are elements dating back to the 15th.
I was there doing floods, which happen about once every 10 years, if not more frequently as global warming changes things. This was interesting because the Old Houses actually have pulley systems in place to protect the furniture. Much of the furniture decorating the traditional houses are intricately carved pieces of teak inlaid with mother-of-peal. So, since the flooding is fairly common (and a few houses track the historical levels of past floods with tick marks on a wall), and some furniture is massive and heavy, the houses use these pulleys to raise the furniture either to the second floor, or secure against the ceiling.
I found this entire process fascinating as it's a clear issue in the long-term sustainability of the town, but the locals have devised a system that has kept much of the houses and the interiors in pristine condition! I've visited other World Heritage towns (Luang Prabang in Laos and Antigua in Guatemala), and Hoi An is unique—unmissable if you're traveling to Vietnam.
Keep reading 0 commentsZoë Sheng
The Dunejec River Gorge in the Pieniny Mountains
The Dunejec River Gorge in the Pieniny Mountains (On tentative list)

As any regular tourist the best way for me to see the river gorge is to queue up for the very popular raft tickets. It will take you through the gorge for about half an hour. On the way you can see beautiful rock formations. The guides don't really speak any English. Some rafts also come from Slovakian side every since they both are part of the EU. You can park your car at the end station of the ride and take a minivan to the ticket booth. There are also two lengths of the ride but the long one is not often available because the best part is actually just after getting on the raft. Keep this in mind for parking the car.
There is also path along the gorge which is popular with bikers and hikers. It will take you a few hours but should be as enjoyable as the ride.
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These salterns, or salt farms as I refer to it, are probably the least visited place on all tourist attractions in the entire country. To visit you naturally need a car. There are surely no tours to visit the area. Judging from the picture I was smack in the middle of some sort of coastal walk that reaches the saltern area half way (the red You Are Here points to the salterns). Thus there must be some kind of interest in the area aside for the salt.
As for the salt farms, you can find exactly what their description implies: reservoirs, evaporation ponds, and crystallization ponds. I'm not sure what the haeju are supposed to look like are but you can see salt silos, and resident facilities, with the latter being alongside the main road before you go into the marshes (even had an English sign to point it out). You get funny look driving in and they are not exactly unfriendly folk around here but must be wondering why someone is driving through the work areas.
As there are many salt farms around the world I am wondering what makes this so unique. Even the description explains that there are many salterns around the world. Salt making is a big cultural heritage, surely, but does this mean the world needs to see it as being unique? So the salt making process is different, the human settlement had blended in with the environment which is hard to spot now as …
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The history of this site is strange. It is on the TL since 1999 and ICOMOS recommended it’s inscription in 2001, but then was deferred and never re-submitted. Now in 2018, according to agenda.ge it might finally be re-submitted but as two or three different sites: Khertvisi Medieval fortress, Vardzia monastery complex and Oloda monastery complex.
Altogether, this area is a vast territory in the upper reaches of the river Mtkvari basin, spread over 18 km from Khertvisi to Vardzia. According to initial ICOMOS evaluation, it is « significant in many respects: unique natural conditions contributing to the specific microclimate and landscape, historical context and diversity of cultural heritage ».
It is easier to reach with own car or through a guided tour. It is more than 4 hours drive from either Tbilissi or Kutaisi. On my vist in october 2016, I stayed overnight in Akhaltsikhe to break the trip and habe some more time in the area.
Khertvisi Medieval fortress is right on the road to Vardzia, on a high rock above the junction of two rivers. It was erected in the 10th century on the ruins previous forts. Legend says that Alexander the Great visited (or destroyed) the place, and that two of its tower were built by queen Tamar. There is a small parking at the bottom of the hill, with an information table. Walking to the fort takes about 10 minutes. Entrance is free. Walls are well preserved and impressive. The view on the valley is …
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The Five Sacred Mountains should actually be the Five Great Mountains of the sacred mountains in China. They are one of the goals any hiker has in China. Additionally to the already listed Mount Tai at the east coast and Mount Song nearby Dengfeng (read: Shaolin temple) and the separately listed as a tentative inscription Mount Hua near Xi'an, it also includes the not-so-well known 2 Heng mountains. As both are pronounced the same way people tend to call them Nanyue and Beiyue for North and South peaks. The northern one is usually done by a tour from Datong. It is easy to climb but you may need to double check with your tour guide that there is enough time to climb it. I found this the least pretties of all hikes. The southern one is easily reached from Hengyang which in turn is reached from Changsha by express train. The beginning of southern Hengshan is actually really nice but the climb up is only possible along the paved road as they try to ensure you buy a bus ticket extra as well as the cable car.
Overall the five mountains are pilgrimage sites that should be protected. Honestly the inscription should directly be for all five because Mount Tai doesn't have any special place in the set. I mainly enjoyed these for nature and getting a good workout.
Keep reading 0 commentsZoë Sheng
Ancient Porcelain Kiln Site in China
Ancient Porcelain Kiln Site in China (On tentative list)

Although there are more than one location for the listing the main one would be Shanglin Lake. Do not be fooled by Google Maps telling you to go to the south side for a "relic" site. There is absolutely nothing there but there was a convenient bus to get me here so imagine the disappointment. Most tourists come here for the lake because you are immediately approached by touts to take a boat tour. I dismissed this at first but then of course had to come back for questions about the relic sites. After finally figuring out that the exhibition hall is at the NORTH side of the lake I took the lady's boat to reach it rather than going all the way around by buses (there are no taxis in this area). Checking with Google Map I found a listing in only Chinese for said exhibition hall.
As far as pottery goes I didn't find it very special. The very similar tentative site in Korea (Gangjin Kiln Sites also listed as tentative site) has a much more unique feel about it. The showcases for just pieces of pottery did not justify the trip for what is apparently something special in the world. They should try to focus on that. Apparently this kind of pottery known as celadon originated from here. I would prefer that the two countries join forces on a celedon listing for a better chance to pass this. After now having been to both places I was …
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I visited this WHS in January 2018. The inscribed name is quite misleading as in actual fact the Blue Mountains National Park is just one of the seven national parks that are inscribed within the Greater Blue Mountains Area. It is also the most visited as it is an easy half day or day trip from Sydney.
That said you could easily spend whole days of hiking without meeting another soul even within the Blue Mountains National Park except from the obvious lookouts. The most iconic and famous of these lookouts is Echo Point with the view of the Three Sisters (photo). Unlike, the Scenic Railway and Cable Car experience in Kuranda, the nearby Scenic World Cable Car is really a colossal tourist trap and you won't get any added value in terms of views or OUV. Moreover, all the tourist crowds and groups flock there like it's the main attraction.
From Sydney, I took a train from St James Station to Katoomba Station. Then you can either take it easy (especially if you only want to visit Echo Point and some minor lookouts like Eagle Hawk Lookout) and catch the Explorer Hop On Hop Off Bus (for 44$) or else simply rely on the very efficient and cheap public transport to be able to cover more ground. Upon arrival at Katoomba station, I first headed towards the Blue Mountains Cultural Centre, which hosted Into the Blue, a very informative section dedicated to the Greater Blue Mountains Area WHS.
The …
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I visited this WHS in January 2018 and literally viewed this landmark from every angle imaginable over 5 days I spent in Sydney. My better half spoilt me rotten for my birthday by booking a great room with a view just opposite the Sydney Opera House (SOH) so I had an excellent view at different times of the day. Sunset and Nighttime views were my favourite.
Already when landing from Uluru, I had a great view of Sydney Harbour and the SOH. There are several viewpoints of this rather modern building but my favourite were from Mrs Macquarie's Chair Lookout, from the Circular Quay Station or the Overseas Passenger Terminal and from the ferry itself (heading towards Cockatoo Island or just opposite to the Luna Park) and from the Pylon Lookout (the view from the entrance - 200 steps below - is just as fabulous and free of charge) on the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
While heading towards Mrs Macquarie's Chair Lookout I followed the interesting Sydney Heritage Walk and while heading towards the Harbour Bridge I followed Cahill Walk. Every day at sunset and at 9pm there's a year-round free spectacular seven minute projection, illuminating the Opera House’s eastern Bennelong sail at sunset and 9pm. It's called Badu Gili and it is best viewed from the Podium at the top of the Monumental Steps.
The Sydney Opera House started to be built in 1957 and it opened officially on 20th October 1973. The site had been occupied previously by Fort …
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The White City of Tel Aviv is the rather poetic appellation given to one of the Middle East's youngest World Heritage Sites -- a living museum of several thousand buildings constructed in the mid-20th century in the Bauhaus or International style. The years prior to World War II brought an influx of architects from Europe to Tel Aviv, where they brought concepts from the Bauhaus school to the sun-drenched shores of the Mediterranean. I arrived in Tel Aviv on a warm spring evening in 2015, and immediately went to the Bauhaus Center at 77 Dizengoff Street to become more familiar with Tel Aviv's unique architecture. Sadly, the center was more of a store than a historical gallery, but it gave me a starting point for my walk around the city. After passing by the Cinema Hotel and Dizengoff Square, I continued for several blocks to Rothschild Avenue, home to a great concentration of Bauhaus-style buildings. Most of the buildings looked very lived in, and some were partially obscured by power lines and palm trees. Still, I appreciated the different approaches to balconies and windows in buildings on both sides of the street. The architecture was worth a visit, but I highly recommend ending the day by enjoying the sunset over the Mediterranean.
Logistics: Tel Aviv is fairly easy to navigate on foot, which is the best way to appreciate the many buildings that constitute this World Heritage Site.
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The SS President Coolidge was a large cruise liner later transformed for military purposes before it struck a mine in the shallow bays of Vanuatu. There is quite a lot of story behind it getting lost and its super calm evacuation you can read on various websites including Wikipedia. The entire cruise ship is now on its side at around 20m depth just off the bay on Vanuatu's northern big island Santo. This place is one of the best dive sites in the world, especially for wreck enthusiasts, and many people come from around the world to dive here for up to a week.
The entrance to the dive site is off the shoreline. You need to walk into shallower waters for around 50m before you can start swimming and eventually descend down the well placed lines. Most of the ship is in good condition for something that has been submerged for over 75 years. There are dozens of chandeliers, a fountain, air fuel tanks, medicine supplies, a medical bay, AA guns, even 4WDs as you explore more. The highlight of the cruiser is "The Lady" riding a unicorn (now sans horn) at 40m depth, a small a porcelain relief that once adorned the galley. Dive guides will usually not take you down there at the first dive due to safety concerns. Vanuatu dive shops seem well aware of safety standards and ensure you are able to dive that depth and it will not clash with your departure flight. As …
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Jinfo Mountain (Golden Buddha Mountain) is a short train/bus ride away from Chongqing. As it is rather famous in the region there are many tourists coming here and it is easy to blend in with the crowds. It boasts karst gorges, stone forests and caves, with the latter being the most attractive to mainland tourists. There are also a few Buddha caves which the mountain is named after but they are more like caves with shrines inside.
From the southern entrance after taking the ropeway up there is a very flat well-built plank walk along the cliff side. This is very enjoyable. You can see caves along the way and one cave can take you through the cliff to the road from where you can take the bus back to the entrance. As this is a little too fast to explore the area I recommend you also go through the cave (most tourists want to see the cave as pointed out already) and then from the cave exit on the other side take the plank road again along the cliff side to the start of ascending the mountain. Going up the mountain is a little tougher but does not take too long either. Once at the top I hardly saw people and the birds become less shy. It is possible to see the stone forests from this walk down the other side. From the end of the path you can continue down to the ropeway station or wait for a …
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I read the recent (and so far only) review of this TWHS and noticed our own experience of this place was exactly complementary to what was reported, so I would like to share a few words on that.
In April 2017 on our way from Bari to Matera, we made a stop in Altamura. As it was already reported, three places may be considered for “visiting” this TWHS. First the “pulo” which is a geological formation typical of karstic areas: world heritage list in already full of karstic formations, caves etc (see also the “dolines” in French WHS “Causses et Cevennes”, very similar to “pulo”). Second, Lamalunga cave, where the skeleton of a prehistoric man was found; however Unesco website indicates it cannot be visited. Only the third location was left and this is the one we decided to focus on: a former quarry with dinosaur footprints, named “de Lucia quarry”, better known locally as “cava Pontrelli”.
Coming from Altamura on road SP235, you shall turn left on a very small road just before passing the quarry, cross the railway, then immediately park on the right side of the road. There is a closed gate, but the quarry is partly fenced and it is wide open on the left side of the gate. This is the way we used to get in, as many visitors had already reported on other websites for travellers. The path gently goes down the excavated area and after ca 200 m, you reach the grey …
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After having cycle the Camino Frances ( Route of Santiago de Compostella - WHS) in Spain in 2012, I went cycling for another long trip along the Via de La Plata (The Silver Route) in september 2014.
The Via de la Plata is another way of Saint-James in Spain, getting from Sevilla to Santiago. It is far less travelled than the two main ways (the Camino Frances and the Camino del Norte – both WHS). It means fewer pilgrims and longer stretch of solitude. In a way, it makes it more valuable and enkoyable. It is as well organized as the other ways. Well marked, and with many pilgrim’s hostels (albergue) all along its way.
Most people would agree that it is best to hike the main Camino Frances for a first experience on the Saint James way. The Via de La Plata is much more rewarding, but is better enjoyed as a second experience.
There is some confusion about what is exactly is the Via de la Plata. On the TL description, it seems to consist of the old roman road from Ayamonte, through Merida and then north to Astorga. Some people would like to extend it to Gijon in the north or have it start in Sevilla. For more confusion, there is two parallel ways named Via de la Plata : the roman way and the Saint-James’s cultural pilgrim’s way. They often merge or criss-cross, but can diverge for long stretches of the itinary. In the Extremadra …
Keep reading 0 commentsZoë Sheng
Marine Protected Areas of American Samoa
Marine Protected Areas of American Samoa (On tentative list)

American Samoa contains super lush green volcano mountains and several parts are protected by the National Park of American Samoa. They work closely together with the National Marine Sanctuary unit. Both organizations have great offices in Pago Pago and you should check them out to get more info on hikes and snorkel/dive trips.
From what I gather the protected marine sanctuaries are six parts. The easiest access to these is given at Fagatele Bay. You need to ask for permission to hike there because the land is owned by a local family. The trail will lead to the bay and weather permitting it enables you to snorkel and swim at a small beach. You can also scuba dive in this and the adjacent protected Larsen Bay. Similarly you can go the nearby island of Aunu'u for more of the same. Getting there is only done by a short boat ride for day trips.
Many think of American Samoa's highlight as being the beach at Ofu. Getting there is not as tricky as expected but the timing has to be done right. There are boats around twice a week and a flight once a week. With a combination of these you wouldn't need to spend a whole week enjoying the pristine beach at Ofu. There are no sanctuaries on lovely Ofu but the nearby island of Ta'u has a wonderful so-called "Valley of the Giants" which makes it a great diving spot. This needs to be arranged on Ta'u itself which …
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The village of Battir is not far from Jerusalem and is right on the Israel/Palestine border. In fact, there are Israeli train tracks which go right past the terraces at the bottom of the hill.
I could not find any organized tours to Battir, which was a shame. Nearby Bethlehem gets most of the attention in the region. That being said, it wasn’t that hard to get to Battir from Bethlehem. I had my tour guide in Bethlehem call a taxi for me which took me to there. It took about 15 minutes and cost about $10.
Battir is a fairly new world heritage site and as such the tourism infrastructure isn’t well developed. There are a few souvenir shops and cafes, but that’s about it.
The terraces are easily accessible if you are on the main street of the village. Expect to spend 30-60 minutes walking around the area. This site is probably going to be of interest to world heritage enthusiasts more than anyone else. Nonetheless, I think anyone visiting Jerusalem would be well off to come and visit a small Palestinian village, which Battir fits perfectly.
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