
I visited this WHS using Tulcea as my base for a couple of days. I took a private tour with one of the several companies, with a certified birder/guide on board, for a full day exploring just a few highlights of this vast WHS. When dealing with the company, make sure to opt for the earliest departure time possible, as most bird activity happens around sunrise and again around sunset. I paid a bit extra to make sure to cover both periods of the day, without any lunch stops and it was worth it.
Make sure to turn off your data roaming already from Tulcea as Ukraine is really close by and you'll risk paying high data bills for nothing. I also printed out a zoomed in version of the excellent map provided by UNESCO to be able to follow our trip and know which strict zones we were covering and which we were only passing by. Sometimes, some of the smaller canals/passages were blocked by fallen down trees and vegetation, so we had to find alternative routes. Having a smaller yet quicker boat was an excellent choice for covering more ground and fine birdwatching (my guide would turn off the engines when approaching big flocks of birds or areas known as great habitats for smaller birds.
Some highlights were dozens of kingfishers in the narrow canals with shallow muddy banks, huge flocks of glossy ibis, spoonbills and pelicans (mostly Great White Pelicans but also Dalmatian Pelicans) near …
Keep reading 0 comments
Site visited in January 2024 as a family trip.
The Gedeo cultural landscape is a recent entry on the UNESCO list, located in a very fertile place, on the slopes of the Rift Valley. The area is green even in the dry season, almost everything is grown here - from coffee to tropical fruits to potatoes and grain.
The area is inhabited by the Gedeo people, who are said to have created unique rules for coexistence and use of natural resources. It's hard to tell when you're there, because the place is currently completely neglected when it comes to serving visitors. Fortunately, the state party provided a comprehensive map of places of interest, so we had a starting point. And on the main road from Hawassa to the Kenyan border there are signs to specific places of interest.
We visited three of the places indicated by the state party,: Tuto-Fela, Chelba-Tutiti and Birbirota Sacred Forest.
Tuto-Fela is an ancient cemetery with dozens of well-preserved stelae, some of which are additionally decorated. The place is located about 5 km from the main road and it is not easy to get there, but it has a normal ticket office and a "guide". I write in quotation marks on purpose, because ours couldn't say much. He also did not know the age of the stelae, because I don't really believe it was built in the 1st century AD. He only indicated that the graves were women's, and …
Keep reading 0 commentsFirst off sorry there's no pictures. It is hard to spot good stuff from above the water and even when one does it will be hard to photograph. From the boat and shore most of the time I only saw the common jellyfish anyway.
I figure this isn't going to be combined with the adjacent Gwaii Haanas NP due to it being mixed culture/nature focus rather than just marine biology. We are talking about a large area between the park and the lower mainland that is considered. The waters here are quite shallow and having brought in the minerals from the ocean the hotspot here thrives. Even the ferry across has to take a specific route to have deep waters to get through.
So while I barely touched the surface (no pun intended) and a dive would be better to discover the marine life, the cold water doesn't make it very attractive. Some people went skinny dipping in this weather back at the lodge so a 7mm wetsuit may just be enough to survive an hour underwater, though I think arranging the dive itself is a biggest issue. I'll give it thumbs up as the marine area here is generally wonderful although which part it will eventually include is undecided. The strait is quite large and touches the park areas too.
Keep reading 0 comments
I visited all locations of this WHS by car except the one in Darjiu using Sibiu and Brasov as my bases. Although most of these villages with fortified churches were quite remote, all have very good roads leading to them except for the last couple of metres of some of them which were unpaved so I parked my car and used this as an excellent excuse to explore the old colourful villages before most of their fortified churches. The horse-drawn wooden carts were still in use in 2023 although are being quickly replaced by cars.
In the summer months, practically all fortified churches are open from 10am to 5pm (with some closed on Mondays). All of them have UNESCO WHS signs proudly displayed but no actual inscription plaque. All of them charge cheap separate entrance tickets which are necessary the be able to view the church structures properly and climb their fortifications for a panoramic view of the villages. I entered all six locations, but if you're pressed for time, make sure not to miss paying for the entrance ticket of the fortified churches of Viscri and Biertan. Darjiu apparently has interesting yet minor frescoes so I hope to get the chance to visit in the near future.
As usual, the best times for photography are early morning and late afternoon, well before the opening/closing times, and I had a field day with my small drone. A really tend to enjoy these treasure hunt serial WHS and Romania …
Keep reading 0 commentsCan SARICA
Ring of cenotes of Chicxulub Crater, Yucatan
Ring of cenotes of Chicxulub Crater, Yucatan (On tentative list)

After a delightful morning exploring the charming city of Izamal, our journey to Uxmal took us through the captivating Zona de Cenotes. This not only added another tick to our UNESCO travel list but also posed the enticing question: What better way to spend the afternoon than immersing ourselves in the tranquil embrace of a cenote? However, this enchanting opportunity came with the challenge of selecting the perfect one from the hundreds in the peninsula, with 99 specifically shortlisted for consideration.
To pinpoint the ideal cenote, I meticulously examined coordinates on the website using Google Maps, ensuring it catered to the needs of our adventurous souls while accommodating our three-year-old daughter. After extensive research, we settled on "Cenotes Hacienda Mucuyche" for several compelling reasons. The historical charm of the old plantation, the picturesque abandoned buildings available for exploration, and the chic, well-maintained landscape all contributed to our decision. The facility's amenities, including showers, toilets, changing cabins, and lockers, ensured a comfortable visit, while the restaurant offered delectable food and drinks at affordable prices.
The cenote itself was a marvel, featuring a visible sinkhole connected to an underground counterpart by a long, half-open, half-covered tunnel. The ambiance was enhanced by a small artificial waterfall, creating a soothing soundtrack. The covered sinkhole, well-illuminated and echoing with sounds, provided a unique experience. Our guide cautioned us to maintain absolute silence upon entering the cave, an instruction we adhered to until my daughter, in a moment of unexpected hilarity, shouted, "Daddy, I …
Keep reading 0 comments
I just realised no one here has actually gone to the neapolis archaelogical park, which is one of the 3 main components of the site so...i'll give my impression.
The archaelogical site IS unfortunately nothing too impressive. I recall a Big greek theatre, a small Roman aphiteatre (both in a somewhat patchy state especially for Italy) and the ancient limestone quarries. Mostly I just walked around the ruins. It's not bad but I would say selinunte or agrigento are much better places to get a feel of the greek past of the island.
Nearby you can go check the catacombe di san Giovanni. They're pretty big and still has a few frescoes. I found them plenty interesting though I haven't visited many paleochristian necropolis to compare them too. I can say it's bigger but roughly of the same quality as the ones I saw in malta. In fact I wonder if they could be added to malta's twhs as a transnational nomination as they're typologically very similar.
Across the road you'll find the basílica santuario Madonna delle lacrime. A pretty interesting (and very photogenic) brutalist church.
I did not visit the necropolis of pantalica but I agree that ortigia IS the main element in the site anyway and it warrants inscription on its own given its importance and good conservation state. I found The temple turned Cathedral particularly enthralling and unique. The rest of the island holds a good baroque ensemble.
Keep reading 0 comments
Ignore my pictures.I tried to get the collage to do LAMU but that didn't work after all so now it's like a Central America facade every town spells out. It should really be "LAME" though.
I flew in from Nairobi which is almost daily. You can also fly from Mombasa and Malindi, with a few other smaller towns as less frequent opens. I was originally going to drive up to see things on the way but the mainland town won't be safe for your car and you'll waste money hiring it for that long anyway, not to mention then drive back down south to return the car. When you arrive by plane you get on a ferry (public is 200sh at 2024 rate) or a private boat for 500 especially necessary if you staying at Shela. Usually a hotel will arrange meetup. Staying at Lamu has several choices. The seafront hotels are a safe bet and they have restaurants too. I stayed at a smaller one that was still clean and spacious. I am not sure I want to recommend staying in Lamu though. As a foreigner you are going to spend more time in Shela as that's where the restaurants are, bars and it's much cleaner. The prices on the island are higher than the rest of Kenya but that seems normal. Shela, by the way, is very touristy with Maasai vendors, boat and motorbike rentals and all the entertainment you are looking for. There is nothing in …
Keep reading 0 comments
Oh jeez, they named a fort after Jesus? Well unlike the prophet the fort is not special, at all. So the unique points are that it was numero uno European (Portuguese) fort in the area of this style, second being that it was taken over by the Omanis. You can get around the entire fort within 20 minutes as it's so small. If you want to hire a guide they will approach you as you get to the entrance already and the ticket check lady asked me again as I entered. I think there are only two places that they would be useful. 1. The great wall painting and I would say that IS the best about the fort if not for it being remade in the 60s. Here there would be explanations to appreciate it more. Second would be arch passage and rooms below because by itself it's nothing to look at and I overheard the guides chat about it a lot. The main barracks are currently under renovation so I think they will add a lot to see later. There is also a small Omani museum but it's not really related to the fort (and talks about heritage sites in that country instead) as well as a large whale bone collection which again doesn't apply to the fort.
Even though I had all morning planned for the sightseeing it was already done within an hour. Can't really recommend it.
Keep reading 0 comments
"Thin elephant red soil", the translation for Arabuko Sokoke Forest, is in my top 3 sites in all of Kenya, and Kenya has a lot of sites/parks!! Arabuko actually means nothing but was taken from a hunter's tribe language that came through and must have seen thin elephants. Red soil is the soil you will see in the park beyond the gate. I spent a full day here and I highly recommend you do the same. I did not visit the small Shima Hills as it was not my way.
The park opens at 6am and if you are interested in birds that's when you want to head in. Stay at the Mida Creek camps for quick access. There are freelance guides thay work from 6am to 5pm (wow!) and my guide Kalama had perfect English and French, birding and nature knowledge. The fee is also super low. The park costs almost nothing ($4 and car is free!) and depending on your time in the park you make a deal for the guide fees. I entered the northern gate by the way. This is one of the only parks not paid via eCitizen.
The best part in my opinion is the hike and it's just near the gate. You will generally walk through mixed, replanted and primal forest. As soon as we stepped around the corner we spotted the famous elephant shrew so that took care of one of the "mini 5" in the park (named after the …
Keep reading 0 comments
One does wonder walking in San Miguel de Allende if each gallery and restaurant is trying to outdo the other to impress potential customers. The ambience, the decor, the presentation is often impeccable. Yes, the "upmarket" vibe in San Miguel is certainly felt and on full display. Yet, during the holidays families were filling up Jardín Allende and Plaza Civica, usually with an ice cream or snack in hand from a street vendor. There is a little bit of everything here to satisfy a wide range of travelers. Sometimes referred to as 'El Corazon' (the fiercely beating bohemian heart of Mexico), one can see an overabundance of charm, culture, and art throughout the town.
Walking San Miguel de Allende:
I would recommend utilizing the WHS boundary map of San Miguel de Allende and invest some time walking to explore East and South of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. Here you will be rewarded with a few decorative fountains, elevated views (Eastern boundary), and less busy photogenic streets. The few hours before and leading up to dusk tend to be the best time for longer walks and picture taking.
Getting to Atotonilco and back:
I do wish the bus was more convenient (there and back) to the The Sanctuary of Jesús de Nazareno de Atotonilco. I went to the bus location, saw an empty bus with 'Atotonilco' on the windshield, but there was no sign of activity (no driver). We waited 10-15 minutes (from the time …
Keep reading 0 comments
Visited November 2023
I do not even know what to write about this site… And I do not wonder that till now no reviews of this site.
Kırshehir, where in the real centre of the city the small complex with the tomb of Ahi Evran is located – but we are not sure if this is the exact place and the exact tomb belonging to him – can be easily visited while traveling between Ankara and Cappadocia. (There’s also another tWHS in the city, one of the Seljuk madrassas.) The tombs itself is nothing special and the mosque where it is located shows no any unique features for a non-Turkish traveller. Its T shape as a uniqueness does not convince me…
The real name of Ahi Evran was a bit longer: Sheikh Pir Nasiruddin Abul Hakayik Pir Mahmud bin Ahmed Ahi Evran bin Abbas Veli al-Khoyi. And this potential inscription is rather about him, and not about the place/tomb/mosque. He came from Western Azerbaijan province in present day Iran, he was a Turkic sufi who travelled all around Anatolia and Iraq. He created and organized kind of a guild brotherhood of more than 30 professions – ahilik that had a big influence on social, moral and religious life of the craftsmen belonging to ahilik, but also on townscaping (Mudurnu). Very close to the mosque the Turkish government built a very big museum (no entrance fee) where you can learn about ahi brotherhood and Ahi Evran himself. And …
Keep reading 0 comments
We visited all four sites of the Stari Ras and Sopocani cluster in October 2023, by public transport with two nights in Novi Pasar. As we had stayed in Studenica the night before we made it to Novi Pasar by the early afternoon (on three different busses) and saw St Peter’s already from the bus going into town. After checking into our accommodation there was time to walk out to St Peter’s and back (about 30 minutes each way). Later, we checked out the busses for Sopocani.
The next day we took the bus towards Bacica at 10.30 – the first one would have been around 6 am. The bus passes first Stari Ras, then Sopocani, and returns an hour later. So we got off at Sopocani, notified the driver that we would go back with him, and indeed caught the same bus going back after our Sopocani visit. Only for 10 minutes or so, when we got off at Stari Ras.
The few ruins along the road, Trgovište, didn’t require more than a quick glance. We immediately set off to find the path behind the resort hotel (near the playground inside the hotel gardens; there was also a map) and walked up. City shoes were not really appropriate for the steep gravel path to the Gradina Fortress. Going up took about 30 minutes; we walked the length of the fortress and took a second path from the far side down (the path forks somewhere on the hillside).
… Keep reading 0 comments
This park is a dream come true. No more being locked into your safari vehicle for hours, no more having to follow your tour guide, you roam free! Yes, self-drive you can do that too but wait for it: you can cycle through this park!! A large area of the park just screams biking and you should get into the spirit.
First off you should stay at the Lake Naivasha accomodations to get an early start. The lake happens to be a UNESCO site too but without getting too much into it, the lake is quite cut off from a casual visit and requires staying at specific lodges or doing a boat cruise to see the hippos. You want to stay here for convenience although it's only a 90min drive from Nairobi.
I recommend entering Elsa gate. You can rent bikes here. I parked my car and entered on the good bikes. The park opens up majestically, a wow effect I don't get often. You need to experience to understand as the cliffs and see scenery pops up in front if you. The entire path here is flat. You'll be welcomed by zebras, buffaloes, giraffes if lucky and maybe some monkeys. No lions, elephants, leopards. It's super safe. Follow the path to the ranger station where you can pay a guide for a short walk, max 1h, to the lookout of the nearby cliff. I feel they only require guides as money-making scheme but no way around it. …
Keep reading 0 comments
I visited Los Petenes-Ría Celestún during a trip to Yucatán in November 2023. The Reserva de la Biosfera Ría Celestún and the Reserva de la Biósfera Los Petenes cover the north-western part of the Yucatán peninsula, straddling the states of Yucatán and Campeche. The easiest point of access is the village of Celestún. It is possible to stay overnight, but a day trip may be sufficient.
In addition to private cars, there are several ways to get there, with Mérida being the most convenient starting point. Most of the city's tour operators and hotels offer excursions to Celestún. In November, this package cost MXN$1,650 per person and included transport to Celestún, boat trip, guide, and dinner, departing at 8AM and returning at 4:30PM. It is also possible to reach the village by public transport. Buses supposedly depart from Terminal Oriente. Departures were posted on the wall, but no one was at the counter when we tried to get information. Most of these buses would make a detour via Hunucmá, taking over three hours to reach their destination. So we opted for a collectivo. However, we had trouble finding the stop (it's here: 20.961635140864207, -89.61616133941756) and the timetable wasn't really respected. So we waited for the van to fill up, and were at our destination in just over two hours.
Celestún's main attraction is the boat trip through the mangroves and lagoon. It is possible to start from the beach, but the boat captains then must make a detour …
Keep reading 0 comments
I've visited Antigua countless times since it's just half an hour from my hometown, Guatemala City. Located in a picturesque valley in Guatemala, Antigua boasts a rich cultural and architectural heritage that is unparalleled in Central America. Its unique urban planning, influenced by its perfect climate, distinguishes it from other colonial cities with wider streets and scenic views of the mighty Volcán de Agua. The city's low and sturdy architecture, particularly the 'Barroco Sísmico' style developed by architect Diego de Porres following the 1717 earthquakes, is exemplified in landmarks like La Merced Church, Palacio de Ayuntamiento, Arco de Santa Catalina, and the ruins of Catedral de San José, the largest in Central America (unlike popular belief, the Cathedral in León, Nicaragua, is smaller in size).
Antigua's churches and ruins are well-preserved, with some repurposed for modern uses like Capuchinas, Santa Clara, and San José. However, others like La Recolección await restoration. Preservation efforts by Consejo de Antigua have improved over time, ensuring authenticity and preventing misguided renovations seen elsewhere, such as the unfortunate case of Panama's Casco Viejo, which has lost much of its authenticity due to excessive decorative alterations.
Contrary to previous comments, the cultural richness of Antigua is evident in its distinctive urban layout, architectural style, and artistic heritage, which are magnified during Guatemala's Holy Week, now recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The city's unhurried lifestyle complements its revered traditions, including elaborate processions and religious ceremonies. Many of the magnificent colonial artworks can still be …
Keep reading 0 comments
Visited December 2023
O! I see I was lucky enough to see some birds. And lucky enough to get inside the park when it was officially closed because of the reason that I was not able to understand although the man at the gate did his best to explain it to me in French when I was leaving the park… yes, when I was leaving the park after spending inside of the park many hours…
How to get to the park from Tunis? It seems to be a bit complicated, but it is not. From the northern bus station in Tunis (close to Bab Saadoun) take a louage (minibus share taxi) to Mateur (12 km from the entrance to the park) or to Manzel Bourguiba (14 km from the entrance to the park); from each of the cities you can take a taxi to the park (around 15 TD; the road from Mateur is in a very bad condition) or catch another louage that goes between these two cities and ask the driver to stop in Zarour; from Zarour you can walk to the gate of the park (6 km) but don’t forget that from the entrance to the lake and the ‘ecological museum’ (permanently closed) it is still more than 4 km. It is much better to take a taxi, it is faster, it is more comfortable, and you can benefit from the fact that the driver is a local guy and can convince the man at …
Keep reading 0 commentsNoel Kempff (NK from now on) is a unique savannah but also has rainforest area - but no, you won't get stuck in a jungle and whack through the thick bush with machetes. You still get plenty of rain, mosquitoes, malaria, ants and the lot. The reason is that NK is quite wild and forgotten, not even the tours go there anymore. I went there 5 years ago with Ruta Verde and since then they stopped doing that, or at least I think they did because last time I asked for a custom tour for a small group and they just declined. The lodges, more or less walls with bedsheets inside, were not nice to begin with and Covid probably killed off the little market there was anyway.
One flies in from Santa Cruz which means another flight to there in the first place but if you are visiting the rest of Bolivia's sights then you will be there anyway. The tour was 4 days (3 tough nights) and every day one would go out trekking and drive on the muddy roads in 4x4s. As you are in a rainforest the types of animals are more like deer, armadillos, anteaters, plenty of birdlife and otters when you do the river tour. The main attraction to look out for would be a puma or jaguar but no luck for me. It's not uncommon to see howler monkeys.
NK is a unique experience but it's a tough trip and it …
Keep reading 0 comments
My visit to Delhi in Dec 2023 was part of my mission of retracing my steps back in 2013, when I first travelled to India and missed visiting Humayun's Tomb and Qutb Minar. That was the time when I didn't care much about UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and my travel companion had a set itinerary I didn't want to deviate from. This time, I made sure that I would visit these sites.
The inscribed property refers to a complex comprising one main tomb (Humayun's tomb itself) and several other smaller tombs. Note that this complex of tombs is just one of the many tombs that are scattered across Nizamuddin neighbourhood and the greater Delhi. As a friend would call it, Delhi is both a metropolis and a massive graveyard.
1. Humayun's Tomb
We arrived at the ticket office around 2 pm, which was about the same time the school kids were finishing their visit to the tomb. We went straight to the Western Gate, passing both Bu Halima's Tomb and Garden and Isa Khan's Tomb and Mosque on the way to the main tomb. After taking a photo of the UNESCO plaque, we passed through the Western Gate and walked towards Humayun's tomb. The mausoleum sits on top of a high platform, giving the already prominent mausoleum a more "superior" status over the entire complex. We climbed the stairs and explored the mausoleum. We saw people "testing" the acoustics of the mausoleum walls, while others were busy …
Keep reading 0 comments
The previous reviews pretty much described what to expect from a visit to the Elephanta Caves, a collection of rock-cut cave temples dedicated to Shiva. Here are some observations and updated info from my visit to the island in January 2024.
1. Logistics - getting to the caves remains the same: you get on a ferry from the Gate of India, sail for about an hour, catch the toy train upon arrival, walk uphill and dodge eager vendors, and pay the entrance tickets. Unless I missed it, there didn't seem to be an option for "luxury" ferry anymore, as everyone got one type of ticket at INR 260 return, with an option to pay extra INR 10 for a seat on the upper deck. I took the toy train (INR 18) and paid INR 5 for the local tax (or 'village' entry fee). I also decided not to buy a guide booklet being sold for INR 180 as I've had internet connection and knew that there would be info panels at the caves. As usual, foreign tourists had to pay a significantly higher fee (INR 600) than the locals, but we all get used to it, I guess. By the way, heaps of garbage on the shores of the island, and it really ruins the experience for me.
2. Cave 1 - as mentioned in previous reviews, cave 1 is the highlight and tells what this site is all about. Some comments on the things you'd see in …
Keep reading 0 comments
My visit was quite a touristy experience, since I visited the Great Barrier Reef several times over the years on tourist boats, that started in Townsville. I would recommend a visit for people, who want to snorkel to see the reef up close. Also, they should be prepared for high swells, when going out in the small boats. On the boat you will get an introduction to the reef as well as to the danger of extinction it is exposed to.
Keep reading 0 comments