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Page 534 of 539
First published: 28/07/04.

Els Slots

Riga

Riga (Inscribed)

Riga by Els Slots

Walking around in Riga (you really have to pack good shoes here), what most surprises is the eclectic architecture. Notably in the Old Town, there is always a medieval highlight next to some Stalinist leftovers. This diversity in styles adds a lively atmosphere to the town. Generally, Riga is less open-air-museum-like than Talinn for example.

The main reason for inclusion is Riga's fine collection of Art Nouveau buildings. They can be found a few blocks north of the city center. There are several streets adorned with great specimens. The buildings by Mikhail Eisenstein are well restored and freshly painted.

Another feature of Riga is the 19th-century wooden buildings. They are less prominent than the Art Nouveau ones and less often renovated.

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First published: 26/05/04.

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Rila Monastery

Rila Monastery (Inscribed)

Rila Monastery by Els Slots

Inaccessible for the medieval man, still a time-consuming trip for the modern traveller. From Sofia it takes almost all day by public transport to get there (and back), so I decided to be clever and rent a car. And this also took me the best part of the day....

Driving in Bulgaria means escaping the potholes in the streets, pedestrians crossing 'the highway', circling around the ubiquitous horse carriages, dead dogs and other runover animals. This can be fun, but what they add is totally erratic signposting. Although I had a detailed road map in Cyrillic, I took the wrong way seriously three times. In all, it cost some four hours to arrive at the monastery 120 kilometers from Sofia. What a day...

Here the lamenting stops: because it was worth all the trouble. Rila's is the most awe-inspiring, colourful and eccentric monastery I have ever been to (and I've seen many). Its location, in the dark green forests and with snow-clad mountains in the background, couldn't be better. The outside walls are a bit bleak, but entering via the Dupnitsa-gate, my mouth fell open taking in the spectacle. I can't begin to describe the colours, the frescoes, the architecture, and all the details, but I hope I can give an impression via the pictures on this site.

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First published: 26/05/04.

Els Slots

Neolithic Flint Mines at Spiennes

Neolithic Flint Mines at Spiennes (Inscribed)

Neolithic Flint Mines at Spiennes by Els Slots

Over the last months, I enjoyed the 'discussion' below among the visitors about how to get to the mines in Spiennes (and even more important - how to get in). But gradually the basic visitor information became clear: there are guided tours on the first Sunday every month, and you have to be very alert in the town of Spiennes to spot the site. To make it even easier: via the link 'Mining site of Spiennes' above there's access to a map.

Besides an extra round on the Mons Ring road (there's only a small sign to Beaumont), I had no trouble finding it. In Spiennes the 'minieres' are even signposted. From above the ground, the site looks remarkable like any farming field. The archeological excavations are limited to two areas: one official site and one for volunteers.

One of the guides showed me around. First some open excavations on the surface. After that we descended a steep iron ladder, to get 10 meters below the ground. Here we arrived in a well-lit cave network (the electrical lights were only recently installed). The difference between the white chalk and the 2 flint layers was clearly visible. The guide explained the techniques used by the neolithic people to get to the flint. It was a tough and patient job carried out precisely. An amazing experience to stand here thousands of years later.

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First published: 25/04/04.

Els Slots

Peking Man Site

Peking Man Site (Inscribed)

Peking Man Site by Els Slots

Maps were unfolded at my hotel when I asked about how to go to Zhoukoudian. It didn't become very clear if there is a bus going there, so I opted to hire a taxi for a few hours. The driver didn't know how to get there either, but with a map and some directions asked underway we drove to Zhoukoudian. After leaving the expressway, we even encountered a large sign "Peking Man World Heritage Site, Zhoukoudian", accompanied by a picture of Peking Man himself and the Unesco logo. At the end of the road through town, we stumbled upon a parking lot and a ticket office (marked Beijing ren). I was pleased to have made it here, as it looked like not many people ever got here.

Behind the entrance, following steep steps through the woods, the first place to see is the Peking Man cave (the one that was discovered in 1921). Signs in English detail the findings here. I had the place all to myself, it was so quiet that I expected some prehistoric animal to creep from under the stones. A great place to contemplate man's life during the past 500.000 years though.

I walked around the other caves and the interesting museum. The phrase 'Few go to visit Peking Man site anymore' (the title of a Seattle newspaper article you can find in the links section above) didn't prove true today however: about half an hour after I had arrived, some twelve buses filled …

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First published: 25/04/04.

Els Slots

Mountain Resort, Chengde

Mountain Resort, Chengde (Inscribed)

Mountain Resort, Chengde by Els Slots

I spent two full days in this city, four hours north of Beijing by bus. Chengde itself is a nice enough encounter with Chinese city life outside the capital. No Mcdonald's or Starbucks can be found here. What it does have is steam trains - an internet search in preparation for this trip resulted in many exciting stories by trainspotters.

But I had my own spotting to do: the Chengde Imperial Resort as World Cultural Heritage. On my first day, I explored the huge park. Don't be fooled by the somewhat standard Chinese gates and buildings at the entrance: when you've passed them you enter a lovely landscape park. There are several lakes, a steppe, and a forest. In the best "natural" spots, pavilions and temples were added. For example the tall and elegant Yongyou si Pagoda.

The next day I walked to some of the outlying temples. Most prominent is the Putuozongsheng, modelled after Lhasa's Potala Palace. It's a strange sight to see it here, in northern China, as well as in the neighbouring Xumifushoumiao (a recreation of the Tashilhunpo monastery in Xigaze). Both are well looked after and brightly painted, but lack the atmosphere of an active Buddhist monastery.

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First published: 25/04/04.

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Summer Palace

Summer Palace (Inscribed)

Summer Palace by Els Slots

This involves a nice bus trip (costing 0,15 euro) to the outskirts of Beijing passing its university. The 'new' Summer Palace is awesome. It's a group of buildings scattered on a hill and along the lakeside. I just couldn't stop taking pictures of the Temple of Wisdom. I think I've fallen in love with yellow and green tiles here in Beijing. And this temple has them all over, together with innumerable little Buddha statues (the ones closest to the ground missing their heads).

When I finally wanted a break after gazing at all the temples, pagodas, halls and so on, I stopped for lunch at the Palace's restaurant. After almost one week in Beijing I encountered them here for the first time: can't-be-bothered waitresses huddled together in a corner, hissing mei you when you order something not too spectacular. Enjoy the old-communist ways at the Tingliguan restaurant, with its yellow chairs, plastic table cloths, and darkened windows (no lights switched on). It was fun to see all western tourists peeking around the door, and immediately back off, while I enjoyed my shredded pork with green peppers.

The next day I went to the Old Summer Palace, which is now in ruins. It's like visiting ancient sites in Greece or Italy, though the Summer Palace is quite new compared to them. At most of the sites they placed a model to show how the buildings must have looked while they were still standing. They all look like reproductions of …

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First published: 29/03/04.

Els Slots

Imperial Palace

Imperial Palace (Inscribed)

Imperial Palace by Els Slots

The Forbidden City is a huge complex at the center of Beijing (behind the Tiananmen gate), that nowadays attracts thousands of visitors every day. I entered from the North, so I was met with innumerable (mainly Chinese) groups that had started from the main entrance in the South.

The funny thing is that everybody clings to the main path (the North-South axis) and that 10 meters to the right or left you're almost on your own.

The complex is surely meant to impress: everything is just huge. You have to take your time to find and look at the details. What I liked most were its simple but effective colours: bright red walls, with green and yellow accents in the tiles.

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First published: 20/03/04.

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Imperial Tombs

Imperial Tombs (Inscribed)

Imperial Tombs by Els Slots

I visited the Ming Tombs on a day tour with a Chinese group. The trip, every day available for 50 yuan at the Qianmen bus stop, also took us to the Wall at Badaling. For the tombs, we stopped at Changling and Dingling.

Changling consists of three courtyards. It's a fine place to walk around. At Dingling, also known as the Underground Palace, you can go .. underground. About seven meters below the ground there is a series of large, hollow rooms. Here the coffin of Emperor Wanli was found, together with two of his Empresses.

Because of the tour, I didn't have the opportunity to see the Great Palace Gate or the Avenue of Stone figures. My guidebooks recommend those, to see it you have to go there on your own (by taxi for example).

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First published: 25/02/04.

Els Slots

Vienna

Vienna (Inscribed)

Vienna by Els Slots

It's a joy to explore Vienna's center on foot. You don't have to worry too much about traffic, and this slow pace enables stopping every 5 minutes or so - to stare in awe at the buildings. Almost every one of them has special ornaments: iron balconies, circular towers, frescoes, statues, and marble pillars.

The City Hall ("Rathaus") is a relatively recent addition to Vienna's splendour (19th century). This huge building at the Ring is in neo-gothic style, and this way blends in very easily with its surroundings. Another highlight for me was the "Am Hof"-square - this is where the medieval predecessors to the Habsburg family had their main seat. Nowadays the fire brigade inhabits one of the magnificent buildings here.

Vienna was a pleasant surprise. Having visited Prague and several German cities, Vienna does stand out because of its overall character: its cleanliness, the condition of its buildings and the general chic atmosphere.

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First published: 05/02/04.

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Schönbrunn

Schönbrunn (Inscribed)

Schönbrunn by Els Slots

Although completely off-season, there were quite a number of other tourists around in Schönbrunn. Walking from room to room caught between two Spanish tour groups is no fun.

However, I experienced that the best things are to be seen outside anyway. Starting with the formidable yellow palace building itself. The colour of the buildings to the left and right is a shade darker, and shiny in the February sun. We spent quite some time walking in the huge garden, climbing to the Pavilion Gloriette. Here you can have some coffee and enjoy the view of the palace.

After visiting the Palm House, we concluded our visit at the Wagenburg. Old carriages are shown here: little ones for the princes and princesses, and big black ones used at funerals. Until 1918, the carriages were in frequent use by the royals. The oldest in the collection even dates from the 1760s.

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First published: 30/01/04.

Els Slots

Maritime Greenwich

Maritime Greenwich (Inscribed)

Maritime Greenwich by Els Slots

Greenwich is part of London, but actually more a kind of village to itself. Going there via the Dockland Railway you pass glittering skyscrapers and modern industrial scenery.

The National Maritime Museum is one of the attractions here: large, with well-presented exhibits. Next door is the Queen's House, a small white building where you really have to see the inside (lovely rooms!). On the hill behind these two buildings is the Royal Observatory - another must-see.

Besides these monuments, Greenwich is also a very attractive place for a walk. The distances are not big, and there are things to see on almost every street. The whole village has a good atmosphere. I found it a great destination for a weekend trip.

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First published: 02/01/04.

Els Slots

Lalibela

Lalibela (Inscribed)

Lalibela by Els Slots

Lalibela is a small and quite poor mountain town. It is also the most prominent pilgrimage spot in Ethiopia, and it houses one of the most amazing manmade constructions in the world.

With a knowledgeable guide, I visited the 11 rock-hewn churches. Only when you go down the size and the outside carvings of the churches become clear. The fact that the places are still religiously important, also adds a lot of atmosphere: pilgrims, priests, and other clergy are abundant.

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First published: 29/12/03.

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Simien National Park

Simien National Park (Inscribed)

Simien National Park by Els Slots

To fully enjoy the Simien Mountains, I did a day trek here. From the town of Debark, they bring you deep inside the park, and in the company of a guide and a scout (with a gun), you can go hiking. The narrow paths circle around the mountain ridges, through grasslands.

In the park, several species of wild animals can be found. Most appealing are the baboons. They can be seen in groups, on cliffs and ridges. It took me almost the whole day to see some of them close up, but on my way back (around 6 pm) groups finally became active and in full view.

The best parts of the Simien mountains to me were the views and the canyons. And also its quietness: it is unusual for Ethiopia, not many people live here.

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First published: 12/12/03.

Els Slots

Aksum

Aksum (Inscribed)

Aksum by Els Slots

The largest standing stele in Aksum I rate definitely as a world-class sight. In a way so simple and so pure. But also so mysterious: how is it possible that a civilization existed here 2000 years ago that was capable of constructing such great monuments?

In and around the center of Aksum, many more remains of the Axumite Empire can be found. It's a bit like walking around in Greece - ruins scattered here and there. There is the Queen of Sheba's Bath, King Ezana's stone, and King Kalebs Palace.

Another interesting thing to see in Aksum is the old St. Mary of Zion Church. Though not open to women, you can sit in the adjoining park and watch daily religious life go by.

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First published: 11/12/03.

Els Slots

Fasil Ghebbi

Fasil Ghebbi (Inscribed)

Fasil Ghebbi by Els Slots

My first view of Gondar's heydays fell upon Fasiladas Baths. This pool lies in a rustic setting somewhat out of town. Sitting on the steps leading to the water, you can only imagine what it looks like during a major religious festival.

In the center of town, you find the Royal Enclosure. Here four castles and several other buildings from the 17th century remain. Still, the most prominent one is that of King Fasilades himself. Round-shaped towers characterize this European / Moghul-looking castle.

The whole historic area is amazing, and a pleasure to be in. Gondar's modern town is also a nice place to spend a few days.

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First published: 15/11/03.

Els Slots

Bridgetown

Bridgetown (Inscribed)

Bridgetown by Els Slots

I was so surprised this one got in, I did not even prepare for it. I had to search old photo albums and digital collections for some pictures. In the process, I even retrieved a long-lost copy of my Bangladesh photos, so at least something good has come out of it! Finding Bridgetown photos proved to be hard ("Is this Bridgetown, or Speightstown?"). I never had gotten to paste the pics into the photo album and write captions. So I just guessed from the order they were in and double-checked them with photos of Bridgetown on the internet.

I went to Barbados for a week in the autumn of 2003. It's a tiny island, very built-up and touristy in some places. I did not enjoy my stay here, and even "fled" for a couple of days to the paradisiacal neighbouring island of Dominica.

But of course (and fortunately now) I did go to visit the capital Bridgetown. I went on a Sunday, and it was completely deserted. A bit rundown and spooky too. The only memorable part was visiting the Barbados Museum - located in the former prison of the Garrison. It shows the island's history, from the slaves to the cricket players.

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First published: 14/11/03.

Els Slots

Archaeological Site of Aigai

Archaeological Site of Aigai (Inscribed)

Archaeological Site of Aigai by Argo

Vergina is situated near Veroia, some 75 kilometers east of Thessaloniki. The easiest way to get there is by car. Not for the first time in my world heritage hunting life, I had some trouble finding the site. It actually is very easy: the tumulus is like a small hill in the center of the town, with lots of souvenir shops nearby. The palace and the theatre are about 2 kilometers uphill.

The burial mound doesn't look inspiring from the outside, but when you go down inside you enter a magic scene. The place has a diameter of 110 meters and is 12 meters high. Currently, there is a fascinating combination to be seen of on-site remains (tombs, columns) and museum pieces taken from the site. A lot of sublime silverware was found (enough to equip a huge kitchen), but the golden crowns made of leaves are my favourite items.

The palace is just outside town, and more like a classic Greek sight. Unfortunately, the supposedly great mosaics were covered during my visit. However, this area and the theatre below are worth strolling around.

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First published: 12/11/03.

Els Slots

Thessalonika

Thessalonika (Inscribed)

Thessalonika by Els Slots

Thessaloniki is a typical large Greek city. This means four lane roads across the city center, creative parking and so on.

The city's most prominent landmarks are the White Tower (lovely posted near the sea) and the Ayia Sofia. This church has an imposing front, and quite distinguished interior. The main colours inside are a kind of dark green, black and bordeaux. Somewhat mystique, especially in combination with the scarce glimpses of sunlight that manage to get in.

There are also innumerable small Byzantine churches scattered around the city. Quite often they are hidden behind apartment blocks, or blocked from the view by parked cars. If you've got some stamina and good walking shoes you can visit several of them, and also enjoy their frescoes.

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First published: 12/10/03.

Els Slots

Old City of Berne

Old City of Berne (Inscribed)

Old City of Berne by Els Slots

Despite its fair number of inhabitants, Berne is an easy town to explore. Actually, there is one long road that crosses the old town. There you can walk under the covered promenade and admire the unique fountains.

During my stay, I enjoyed the tour to the interior of the Clock Tower the most. On this one-hour excursion, you get the chance to view the clock's medieval machinery in action.

Another rather strange place to visit in Berne is the Bear Pit. For ages, Berne has displayed live bears to remember where the city's name originated. Nowadays it's more like a zoo, but nevertheless, an interesting idea when you know that bears have been kept here for so long.

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First published: 14/09/03.

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Morne Trois Pitons

Morne Trois Pitons (Inscribed)

Morne Trois Pitons by Els Slots

On my first night in Dominica I stayed in the village of Laudat, at the foot of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park. In the evening I enjoyed sitting on the veranda of my hotel, gazing at the green around me and enjoying the silence.

The next day, after a visit to Dominica's colourful capital Roseau, I visited Emerald Pool. This is also part of the world heritage site: it's a basin at the bottom of a waterfall in the jungle, with swimming pool quality.

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Page 534 of 539