Yen Tu

On my flight from Rach Gia back to Ho Chi Minh City after Oc Eo sightseeing with ICOMOS experts, I found an interesting inflight magazine article about Yen Tu. After landing, I discussed with our accompanied local guide and immediately decided to extend my Vietnam trip to cover Yen Tu. Instead of flying back from Danang via Bangkok, my guide contacted her company to change the ticket to Hanoi and arranged a special program for me to explore Yen Tu. Since this was an impromptu trip, I rarely had information on this holy land of Truc Lam Vietnamese Zen Buddhism. At first, I requested to visit Vinh Nghiem pagoda on my way to Yen Tu, as Els did, but the tour company advised me to go to Con Son-Kiep Bac which I OK after reconfirmed that the name appeared in the description in UNESCO website.

Almost 2 hours from Hanoi Airport, I arrived at Con Son Temple, pronounced “Concern”, smoothly via new paved road that clearly is a part of beautification project to prepare world heritage inscription. My driver dropped me at the small lake in front of the outer entrance and behind the arch gate is the lovely pathway led to inner entrance, the layout was stately and like Temple of Literature in Hanoi showing connection with imperial family. Inside each temple hall, surrounded by corridor, is richly decorated with gold and red painted wooden panel like Chinese temple and the fragrance of offering flower, fruit and …

'The Complex of Yen Tu Monuments and Landscape' is a mixed site that comprises a huge area, spread out over 3 separate regions. It is the heartland of Truc Lam Zen Buddhism. Skimming the long description of this TWHS, the Vinh Nghiem pagoda stood out to me as probably the most worthwhile individual component.

The Vinh Nghiem pagoda dates back to the beginning of the 11th century and was enlarged during the Tran dynasty (from the 12th century on), when it became the center of Truc Lam Zen Buddhism. Truc Lam ("bamboo forest") is the only indigenous form of Buddhism in Vietnam. The Vinh Nghiem pagoda was also the first training institute in Vietnam to teach Buddhist monks and nuns.

This pagoda lies near the provincial capital of Bac Giang and within a reasonable bus distance from Hanoi. So on a gloomy New Year's Day I first went with city bus 34 to Hanoi’s long distance bus station My Dinh and there caught one of the half-hourly buses to Bac Giang. The Vinh Nghiem pagoda lies in the village of Tri Yen, some 18km outside of Bac Giang. I had an idea how to get there (take a taxi), but not what to expect of it. Would it be big or small? Would it be open to tourists at all? And an important lesson from previous visits to remote (future) WHS: would I be able to find transport back?

The pagoda turned out to be on the …